Rustic rice syrup, palm sugar, barley tea, earth-toned hints of peet and burdock, intense chocolate roast flavors, a durian note, and complex finishing flavors of rye and black pepper. City+ to Full City+. Good for espresso.
|Region||Gunung Tujuh, Kerinci|
|Processing||Wet Hulled (Giling Basah)|
|Drying Method||Patio Sun-Dried|
|Arrival date||December 2020 Arrival|
|Bag size||60 KG|
|Cultivar Detail||Ateng, Jember, Tim Tim|
|Appearance||1 d/300gr, 15-18 Screen|
|Roast Recommendations||City+ to Full City+|
|Recommended for Espresso||Yes|
This coffee comes from a coffee farmer's cooperative in the Gunung Tujuh area, a higher elevation coffee zone around Mount Kerinci. The cooperative serves about 450 farmers in the area who are divided into 24 farmer groups, 4 of which are specifically women's farmer groups. Many of the farms in this area are planted in older Typica types and benefit from the high slopes, situated between 1400 - 1500 meters above sea level. This is a wet hulled coffee, also known as "giling basah". This is the typical process method in Sumatra and involves removing the parchment layer while the coffee is still wet, exposing it to the elements well before the coffee is stable. When handled well during the drying phase (like this coffee), this rustic process method yields an earth-toned, bodied cup, with mild acidity and syrupy sweetness, and the green bean taking on a dark green hue unlike wet or dry process coffees from other producing countries. Having roasted this coffee, I'm very pleased with the uniformity of roast color and the minimal quakers from underripe coffee making it through. Giling basah - and Sumatran coffee in general - has a reputation for being riddled with defects even at "Grade 1" standard. Our "Appearance" category score is a little on the high side as a sort of worse case scenario, even though the green I inspected looked much cleaner than this. I saw minimal broca damage for Sumatra (this is not a Latin American coffee), only a few unripe beans, and some broken beans. It's no Grade 1 Ethiopian coffee, but far better than your average Grade 1 Sumatra.
This coffee from Kerinci is a lot cleaner than the typical wet-hulled coffee, the earth tones that you might expect are there, but don't overpower the cup. The fragrance and aroma produce molasses-like sweetness when roasted to City+, sorghum, pumpernickel bread dough, and a ribbon of chocolate. Roasting Sumatra light isn't always recommended, but this coffee excelled in both dark and lighter City+ roasts. In fact, the lighter end of the roast spectrum is where I found my favorite cups. Rustic rice syrups are folded in with sticky dried fruit, a light caramel glaze and a hint of durian (that creamy-sweet flavor, not the funky smell!). My Full City roast boasted palm sugar sweetness accented by earth-toned hints like peet and burdock, along with intense chocolate roast flavors. The finish had hints of rye, raisin, black pepper, and baking chocolate accents. A very complex Sumatran coffee!