THIS COFFEE HAS SOLD OUT. This wet processed Sumatra has juicy body, persistent flavors of baked apple, berry compote, and grape jelly come up as your work through the coffee, a peety note shadowing close behind, as well as woodsy earth tones. City+ to Full City+.
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This coffee represents an intervention in the parchment coffee buying process around the Atu Lintang area of Sumatra, where wet parchment from the farms is bought by mills, dried to 50% moisture or so, and then "wet-hulled" to create the typical dark green Sumatra coffee. Because wet-hulled (called Giling Basah - HERE'S an article with background) coffee is laid out to dry after the parchment layer is peeled off, it is exposed to all kinds of possible taints. Under the best conditions, the green coffee is laid on raised beds or clean concrete patios. But in smaller mills and home-processing, it is laid on driveways, on dirty tarps, or directly on hard dirt plots. Nowhere else in the world is unprotected green coffee dried like this. This project in the high hillside villages with good altitude, around 1450 meters above sea level, which not only has an effect on bean density, but you see a much lower instance of broca beetle damage in the beans. Whole cherry is delivered to a central washing station where the cherry is graded and then wet-processed. A departure from the Giling Basah tradition, with accountability and intention from the cherry to the eventual hulled product. And it's a difference you will find right away in the cup.
This coffee is so distinct from other Indonesias, like a hybrid between a Sumatra and a Central America coffee. It has the brighter, lively character of other origins, but still retains a degree of the rustic-flavored Sumatra roots too. The dry fragrance at City has the smell of a coffee that incurred a longer fermentation time, healthy accents of berry and grape skins, wine-like fruited characteristics, with a subtle earthy accent. Breaking the wet crust gives off a nice mix of butter toffee and roasted almond, and the earthy/herbal quality sensed in the dry fragrance gains a bit more prominence here. This is a spectacular brewed coffee, showing well at a wide range of roasts. The body is less weighty than a wet-hull Sumatra, but still has some weight to it, that with fruit juice-like acidity impressions, comes off as being juicy on the palate. As a pour over, City+ roasts are fruit forward to say the least (and actually, so are roasts north and south of this mark), persistent flavors of baked apple, berry compote, and grape jelly come up as your work through the coffee, a peety note shadowing close behind, as well as woodsy earth tones. Body at Full City is inky, and a bittersweet cocoa flavors wrap around a complex array of stewed dark fruits and more rustic undertones. All in all, this wet processed lot is not your average Sumatran coffee, and an opportunity to get a better taste of the confluence of cultivar and terroir without the cloud of traditional giling basah Sumatran processing.