THIS COFFEE HAS SOLD OUT. Burned sugar and cocoa aromatics are echoed in the the cup as well. Base flavors of toasted sugar and cocoa-dusted almond, accented by tart-to-sweet citrus, and baking spice top notes. City+ to Full City+. Good for espresso.
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This coffee is from a small group in Ciwidey, who are located around the mountain peak ("gunung") of Haruman in the Malabar mountain range. It is the result of working with the local farmers in the oldest coffee-growing region in Java, and wet-processing the coffee in little batches to high standards. Java Sunda (West Java) was the original coffee area, but you would find few trees here of late. Most Java coffee is grown in the East, where the big estates are. But farmers in Java Sunda always kept small coffee plots, although they mainly grown rice, onions, cabbage, carrots and other food crops for local markets in Bandung and Jakarta. Here amongst the Ateng and Jember coffees are some old Typica trees, the original Typica, which is quite amazing. (Java was the first destination for coffee from Yemen, with a stopover in India). This is the sixth year of this project for us, and the first time we are doing single-farmer lots, thanks to the hard work of the exporter to keep each separate for us. These washed Javas tend to darken up more than most coffees, and I found myself pulling batches a tad on the light side. Paying special attention to the other sensory cues will greatly aid you in hitting your desired roast mark (not to mention giving it a test run in a sample machine when possible)!
Haruman has a malty smell in the dry grounds, like maltose syrup, along with a sort of pumpkin-spice/nutmeg scent. Hot water builds a strong scent of raw cane juice, along with cacao nib, and faint melon hint. Cocoa builds in the steam wafting off the crust, and the break produces a healthy dose of burned sugar, and slight basil smell. Haruman is a great example of how clean these washed Javas can be, without the earthy characteristics you might expect from Indonesian coffee. City+ roasts have a hint of lemon, even when hot, which opens up to a much sweeter citrus flavor mixed with candy-coated nut. Heavy sugar browning and roasted almond build out a solid core to the coffee, especially at lighter roast levels, and I'm really surprised at the level of citrus-like acidity found in the cup. Roasts edging toward FC show a nice mix of dried fruits dusted with bittersweet Dutch cocoa powder. City+ to Full City is where we found our sweet-spot maximizing sweetness and nuanced top notes.