THIS COFFEE HAS SOLD OUT. 2017 is a good year for Duromina, intense flavors of peach and nectarine, and orange marmalade note is attention grabbing. Deeper roasts pull out cacao bittersweetness, dark berry, plum, and citrus rind. Moderate acidity level. City to Full City. Good for espresso.
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This coffee from Duromina Cooperative is part of an initiative we have in Ethiopia to work direct at the coop level. We have been involved with Duromina for the past 5 years, selecting our favorite lots to offer on our site. Duromina was formed with the help of a non-government organization that not only coordinated agronomists and managers for each of the coops they work with, but also had a business adviser assigned that helped the cooperative manage their debt, re-invest in quality improvements at the mill, and verifies distribution of income to all members. This is a key position; I have never known a coop to get this kind of expert advice from outside ... not in Africa at least. A cooperative can make all kinds of quality improvements, turn out fantastic coffee, and sink deeper in debt all the while. Cooperatives often fail to return a fair and full amount of payment to their farmer-members. Often this is from poor management, and sometimes from graft as well. Duromina has now "graduated" from the NGO program and operates independently with the oversight of various farmer-member leadership groups. Duromina is in the Goma region of Agaro Woreda, with farm altitudes between 1900 to 2100 meters. The name, chosen by the farmers, has quite a straight-forward meaning: it roughly translates as "Make More Money!" With the solid price we pay the cooperative for their best lots, and their success reinvesting in the Goma area, the name has proved quite appropriate. NPR did an interesting audio piece on this coop, you can check out HERE.
Duromina's high level of sweetness and ripe fruited notes are apparent right from the get go. The dry fragrance is front-loaded with ripe peach and apricot smells, a layer of honey sweetness, and intense layers of fruit. Adding the hot water brings up a smell of dark honey, and the wetted crust seams saturated with stone fruit sweetness. The cup flavors echo the aromatics in multi-layered fruit tones, subtle floral hints, and unrefined sugar sweetness. City roasts make for the brightest cups, a subtle lemon tea high note backs syrupy flavors of nectarine, orange marmalade, and a kaffir lime note. The sweetness is like burned caramel, intensity increasing with roast tone, and bergamot peel accent comes through in the finish. City+ roasts have body like fruit nectar, and flavor notes as well, peach and mango coming to mind. Chocolate tones are the trade off with more roast development. Not a bad thing at all, especially if you prefer roast intensity, and fruited intensity is not compromised. Top notes of dark berry and plum come into focus, fading to rindy citrus hints in a cacao-laden finish. Acidity level is moderate in comparison to some of the Yirga Cheffe's we've carried, but structuring none the less. Duromina is wonderful as SO espresso too, creamy in mouthfeel, and flavors of dried natural apricot and dark chocolate sauce are attention grabbing.