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Familia Moreno shines in middle-roast range, blackberry syrup and cardamom spice notes, along with dried cherry and rindy citrus. A cool cup reveals a tart and floral hibiscus tea flavor. Deeper roasts introduce heavy chocolate tones along with the aforementioned. City to Full City.
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Here's another of the coffees we've been purchasing in Urrao, a region new to us this year, where the intersection of high altitudes and cold natural springs sees longer fermentation time in the region. This seems to have an affect on the cup profile, the coffees from many of the farmers we are working with producing a more fruit-forward cup character, albeit without the edginess tasted in over-fermented coffees. This particular lot is a blend of four cousins, hence the name - "Familia Moreno". I visited one of the cousin's farms last year, 1.5 hectares planted completely in Caturra. The Moreno family represent a few of the 20+ farm-member group that has been assembled based on their ability to consistently deliver high quality coffee. The coffees from this region are truly unique with fruited characteristics - tropical, berry, stone fruit, etc - rivaled only by incredibly high levels of sweetness. They are all basically neighbors, and have coordinated parchment deliveries to coincide with on-the-spot cupping and purchases made by a small intermediary we work with. I took part in selections on my last visit and was impressed by the consistency from one lot to the next from group members. Rains are persistent to say the least, seeing coffee on the trees every 3 weeks or so throughout the year. Because of this, like Inzá on the opposite side of the country, Urrao has two "peak" harvests instead of the common "main" and then the much smaller "fly" crops.
The dry fragrance of Familia Moreno is like processed brown sugar, the C&H variety, molasses low in the profile and for the most part "refined". A slightly floral and fruited note comes up too, like ripe red apple, along with a touch of cardamom spice. The wet crust smells like apple pie, cinnamon stick and an all-spice accent, along with a ripe berry smell on the break. Fruits are a bit more pronounced in City+ roasts, and even on into FC. At City, expect tea and raw sugar flavors to dominate, gentle black tea-like acidity, and malic fruit flavors like Asian pear, and apple. City+ roasts pull out a blackberry syrup aspect, along with dried cherry and a rindy citrus note. As the cup cools, citrus elements and baking spice notes come into focus, and a hibiscus tea hint fills out the aftertaste, tart and floral. Full City roasts show a presence of high % dark cacao bar, and while fruits are tamed a bit up front, the cool cup reveals much of the dark berry and citrus tones found at lighter roast levels.