|Appearance||.4 d/300gr, 18+ Screen|
|Roast Recommendations||City roast works well for the brightest cup, but needs a good 48+ hours rest after roasting. Otherwise, City+ to Full City. Kimel AA was remarkably stable in terms of brightness and cup flavors. See the review comments.|
Papua New Guinea occupies the Eastern half of the island it shares with the Indonesian province of Irian or simply Papua. There is very, very little organized coffee production from the Irian side. But the PNG highlands are planted with a variety of coffee types, with farms in both the large plantation model and many smallholder coffee gardens. PNG coffees can be a bit confusing: They are different from other Indonesian, Southeast Asian or Pacific Island types. All PNG coffees are wet-processed, which explains why they have a brighter, more acidic profile, and why some basic aspects of the cup are vaguely similar to Central America coffees. Most Indonesia coffees (Sumatra, and most Sulawesi) are "wet-hulled" which results in lower acidity, heavy body, and the funky "earthy" character. With PNG there can be a huge range of cup flavors from rustic, bulked Organic lots to Plantation coffees. The plantations are larger farms that have their own coffee-processing wet mills, so they are able to control all the variables of production better than the small-farm coffee gardens. That is where the Kimel farms are rather interesting. Kimel has their own wet mills like a plantation, but is actually a group of farms centered around the main 620 hectare plantation. Kimel is cooperatively-owned by the indigenous Opais peoples of the Wahgi Valley. In a sense, it is a private cooperative, and mainly due to excellent altitudes and decent quality control at the mill, the coffee has a vibrant brightness while retaining some unique PNG origin characteristics. Also interesting is the fact Kimel is comprised of more cultivars than you can count on one hand, a mixed salad of green coffees: Typica, Arusha, Blue Mountain, Mundo Novo, Catimor, Caturra, and probably more! This indicates that, while buyers and sellers like to represent coffees being of one or two cultivars, in reality farmers tend to plant some on any type that comes along, a way of hedging your bets in case any particular cultivar doesn't pan out. Kimel is broadly available since Royal Coffee sells it, but there is a good range of quality from lot to lot, grade to grade.
This particular AA lot is extremely nice, better than any of the Peaberry lots this harvest. The dry fragrance is sweet, laced with orange fruit notes, especially vibrant at City+ roast. The Kimel AA comes to life in the wet aroma. Adding hot water to the grinds and sweet layers of orange marmalade emerge, with a hint of pear and cinnamon accents. I was impressed how the clean brightness is stable through all the roast ranges. City+ roast has apple and apricot flavors as well as floral touches (honeysuckle). It's quite vibrant and high toned at this roast level, perhaps not what people think of from Indonesia coffees but if you like our wet-processed Sulawesi offerings you will appreciate the lighter touch on the Kimel AA. While the darkest roast I tested did not breach into 2nd crack; sarsaparilla and spice domintate, but it has some slight piney-foresty tastes, hinting at its origin as a near-Indonesia coffee. In between these two roast extremes, the cup was very balanced, possessing ample sweetness, fruit, and spice in the finish.