Fruit salad cup with pineapple, banana, and melon dressed in honey, cinnamon and clove The body has a lot of presence in all roast levels, creamy instead of syrupy, with a slight textural starchiness that helps promote the spice notes. City+ to Full City.
It was a very competitive year in the Kenya auctions, and the prices reflected the high demand for a much smaller than average harvest. We found many great coffees from the Kirinyaga district, including this really nice peaberry from the Gachami coop. Gachami is a coffee factory (that is, a wet mill) in the Kirinyaga district of Kenya. It is one of 11 wet mills that are part of the Baragwi Farmers Cooperative Society based in Kianyaga town.
This peaberry preparation comes from the exact same lot sent to the dry mill, which is then screened into various sizes: AA, AB and PB and off grades as well. These are called "out-turns" in Kenya. I find that, if the milling is done poorly, peaberry lots can have off flavors when compared side-by-side to the AAs and ABs. But done right, they have concentrated brightness and great intensity. That's the case with Gachami.
This is a unique Kenya, with sweet lavender floral in the dry fragrance. The wet aroma shows a slight hoppy-ness with honey, with floral hops on the break. In the darker roasts it's more of a floral clove and allspice break. Over several different cuppings and roast levels, the floral and spice characteristics were the most consistent, but there is also a complex fruitiness. It's a fruit salad quality, like a predominantly pineapple, banana, and melon fruit salad dressed in honey and cinnamon and clove and left to chill overnight. The different attributes of each fruit have blended together, the most potent combination in the cup at the lightest roasts being the brightness and sweetness of the pineapple with the starchy sweetness of the banana. The body has a lot of presence in all roast levels, creamy instead of syrupy, with a slight textural starchiness that helps promote the spice notes. One full day off roast at City + to Full City, the cup shows clove and lavender honey butter with the fruit taking on the melon quality. This coffee might lack the clarity in the body of certain Kenyas, but is sweet, complex, and perhaps even a bit more approachable to those who aren't into the more overtly grapefruity Kenyas.