This coffee is from the farm of Do±a Maria Rosa, her farm Los Nogales tucked away in the hillside above the store her family operates in the town of San Antonio. Los Nogales is not reachable by car, a trail curling up around the side of the local school yard, then up, up, up for the better part of an hour to the reach the top at just shy of 2000 meters. During the picking season, Do±a Rosa makes this trek daily at 5 am to organize labor for the day's picking, and to check on the processed coffee from the previous day's harvesting. We've stayed with her several times now, and the amount of work she puts into the farm, store, family, and guests is nothing short of incredible. Not surprising, the rest of the family are all involved in their own farms as well, the youngest with a plot named "La Salada", and Robins_n managing a shared 10 hectare farm down the way, Los Palomos del Sur. Los Nogales is about 3 hectares in size, and they've planted 3 different cultivers: Caturra, Tabi, and Typica. Like many in the region, their beneficio consists of a manual de-pulper, and they have a 3 tank system involving separate tanks for fermentation, soaking, and a final wash before being carried down to their home solar dryers in the town below. Their farm is situated along a ridged valley, carbonero trees towering from the valley floor, and banana and balsal trees used for shade.
The smells found in the dry grounds are potent to say the least, a scent of ripe red berry is underscored by raw cane juice like sweetness. Full City roasts have a smell of chocolate syrup with hefty blackberry ribbons. Adding hot water adds a floral element to the wet grounds, densely sweet berry jam smells, and a floral blueberry tone released in the steam. City roasts make fruited cup, fresh fruit and fruited tea flavors, and a panela-like sweetness reverberating through to the finish. As the cup cools, a blackberry tea note comes up, fading into a flavor of dried banana and molasses - like the whole dried bananas that are sweetened with brown rice syrup. A tea-like brightness holds the cup flavors together, and provides a nice tannic mouth cleansing sensation in the aftertaste. Edging toward Full City roast level sees a boost in big blueberry flavors, jammy sweetness, and a bittersweet cocoa aspect that rivals rich chocolate brownies. This lot from Do±a Rosa stands out among the rest, and sure to please those looking for a more fruit forward wet-processed Colombia offering.