Features: Can produce any roast style, from City roasts to Dark French/Spanish roasts. But lighter roasts are more difficult with this method. Air roasting produces even roasts with less effort, but if you like doing things the "olde tyme way", you may enjoy this! Beans can be observed during the roast since half the Whirley-Pop lid is hinged and flips up. The Stainless Steel popper has a plastic window which is great for visibility but will warp or melt if you roast too hot/too fast. This method roasts by conduction, more like old shop roasting. Can roast 8 oz of coffee at a time. Much more effort required than a roasting appliance ore even an air popper because you have to sit and crank. And if you don't like this roast method, the the stovetop poppers are incredible popcorn poppers!
What You Need: Whirley-Pop (previously known as the Felknor Theatre II) or Back to Basics Stainless Steel poppe, or another similarly designed device, gas stove (electric with larger burner OK too), thermometer is mandatory for this method, a metal colander or two for cooling, and oven mitt.
Stovetop roasting takes some practice. There are more variables than other methods since you set the heat and provide the agitation. But the results can be outstanding and the 1/2 lb. batch is nice. It sometimes seems like a 3-handed act: before you start, try a Òdry-runÓ by adding green coffee without any heat, and agitate it. In the course of the roast, agitation gets easier as the coffee loses weight and expands.
Warm, fresh roasted beans are wonderful, but the coffee attains its peak 4 to 24 hours after roasting. If you store it as recommended, we'll call it fresh for 6 days. When you open that jar in the morning, you will know what fresh coffee truly is.Ê
More Tips:
If the agitator jams while cranking, don't force it. Work it free by cranking the opposite direction. When the popper is cool, see if you can bend the agitating tines to hug the bottom of the pan a little closer.
If the heat is too hot, or you worry about burning up the pan, you can use a cast iron pan, or cast iron heat diffuser under the pan.
Having trouble getting an even lighter roast? You need to slow down the initial warm-up period of roasting (from the time you put the coffee in until first crack).
Clean the popper with scalding hot water every so often to reduce the coffee oils ... it is not necessary to clean it after every roast. I clean mine after every 15-20 roasts. I have actually Òseasoned the drumÓ of my new professional shop roasters by burning up coffee in it!
Modifications and Refinements:
Here's a helpful overview of the stovetop process written by Philip Scott-Smith. a home roaster on the island of Guam. It sounds like his inital temperatures are probably too high for the stainless poppers with the plexi window - unless you have modified the popper and replaced this with a pie plate:
"I believe I finally have the Whirley-Pop method worked
out right.
The most important thing to remember is that the W-P is a CONDUCTION roaster.
Consequently, the beans always are at risk from scorching. Even if the thermometer
is reading acceptable temps, it's easy to get scorched results because simply
cranking the agitator doesn't get them far enough away from the hot skin of
the roaster.
Here's my new method, which has produced consistently superb coffee (possibly even better than my Home Innovations roaster):
Here's is yet more feedback from a customer on his stovetop popper method - from Bill Baddeley 5/27/05:
I've been working with the steel version of the stovetop popcorn popper for the past several weeks, and I've gotten to the point of getting consistently good coffee from my roasting efforts. I found a few small glitches as I went along, mostly in the first roast.
•The popper has metal gears on threaded rods. When the agitator began to stick, prior to the first crack, I cranked backwards. The gears began to unthread from the rods, so I went back to "forward only" cranking. I put blue locktite (thread sealer) on the threads and replaced the gears, and have had no trouble since. The blue formula allows you to take the gear off if you need to at some later date.
•Shortly after I'd narrowly avoided losing the gears by cranking backwards, the clip that retains the handle on the crank rod popped off and rolled away. So, now we're cranking forward, and being careful not to slip the handle off the crank rod. And we're mildly apprehensive. I used a 5/16" O.D. c-clip to retain the handle, and it's been fine.
•The polycarbonate window sagged when the heat got too high, but stayed put well enough to get me through the first batch. I replaced it with a pieoe of sheet aluminum and that, too, has been fine.
•The thermometer fit through a #8 (8-32) t-nut with the threads drilled out of it. The gasket compound works very well, but I didn't use enough the first time, and the thermometer AND the t-nut wobbled around, giving me one more thing to try to keep lined up in that first attempt to roast coffee. I used a nut to secure the t-nut to the lid, and then the gasket compound, and it's been fine since then.
Your advice on listening and smelling the roast as it goes is excellent. It's much easier than trying to see the beans through the smoke. I had one batch that turned out to be a bit lighter than I wanted, so I poured the beans back into the pot, and roasted them a bit more. I had a couple of roasts that ran too hot and too fast: one so bad I couldn't drink it. But once you get the hang of it, the roasting process is pretty straightforward. And the coffee is wonderful.
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