Ethiopia

Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee: it is in the forests of the Kaffa region that Coffea Arabica grew wild. Coffee is "Bun" or "Buna" in Ethiopia, so Coffee Bean is quite possibly a poor anglicized interpretation of "Kaffa Bun". We consider Ethiopian coffees to be some of the best in the world, and extreme genetic diversity of the coffee shrub is certainly part of the reason why. Most of the coffee is either wet-processed - resulting in a vividly bright cup, with fruit and floral notes - or dry-processed with the fruit skin intact.  The latter technique produces a very  different, rustic fruited flavor profile, and with thicker body.

 

Coffea Arabica was also found in the Harar region quite early, either brought from the Kaffa forests or from closer areas around the Sudan border. It is entirely possible that slaves taken from the forests chewed coffee cherry and spit out the seeds, thus spreading it into the Harar region, through which the Muslim slave trade route passed.

 

Ethiopian coffees are available from some regions as dry-processed, from some regions as washed, or as both.  The difference between the cup profiles produced by "natural" and washed methods is profound. Washed Sidamo, Yirga Cheffe and Limmu have lighter body and less earthy/wild tastes in the cup then their dry-processed kinfolk.

 

Essentially, coffee is a type of produce, and Ethiopian coffee reminds me more and more of this fact. When you find a really great coffee like the dry-processed types from the South, it is like eating Michigan peaches at the height of the season - sweet, juicy, fruity, and ripe with flavor. But then those peaches are gone, and you hope that the next season will produce the same results.  Similarly, the cup profile of these coffees can be equally amazing, but when they're gone, they're gone. If all the factors line up just right, it might be the same next year. But then again, maybe not.

 

Ethiopian coffees can vary greatly from lot to lot. It takes a whole lot of cupping to find the specific lot of coffee that is superior to the rest. When I find the best coffee, I buy the majority of the year's production immediately, leaving a small opening in case any other good lots come along later in the season. With dry-processed Ethiopian coffee we're able to do this at the beginning of the season. These early coffees tend to be best, which is in contradiction with many other origins where the earliest are often underdeveloped.

 

We have many pictures and notes about Ethiopia coffee in our travelogs, namely a cupping trip to Addis and an interesting trek to Dire Dawa and Harar in the east. Since that first trip I've been back every year covering the regions in the West and South in particular - usually 2-4 times per harvest.

 

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The traditional coffee ceremony. Yes, Ethiopians love coffee!

Fresh coffee cherry laid out on beds to create dry-processed, or "natural" coffee.

Baskets used to winnow Harar coffee

For wet-processed coffee, agitating the coffee in the washing channel is important to remove the mucilage.

Coffee Farmer, Kochere in the South

Coffee Orchard of old trees in the West Agaro area

Coffee Service in Bamboo Cups in Illubabor

Sorting for dry processed coffee in area of Dumerso, South

Wet process parchment coffee laid out to dry on raised beds

First Coffee Delivered to Yukro Coop, Agaro

Hulling the whole coffee cherry, by pounding in Harar area

I jumped in to feed the Hyena. It's not as scarey as it looks.

Submerged anaerobic fermentation in the South.

Forest coffee in the West, coffees native habitat.

Heavy forest in Wollega area

Ethiopia has a special beauty

Kids trying to get in the pictures of the coffee cherry in Harar area

Konga area of Yirga Cheffe

Sorting wet parchment coffee in Kaffa district in the West

Coffee cherry in Kaffa, near the birthplace of coffea arabica

Roasting coffee the traditional way in Kaffa

Murals inside Ethiopian Orthodox church Kulubi Gabriel

One turns away ... Orthodox Ethiopia Church

The first time I smelled cherry pods that smelled like roses. They usually smell likd dirt.

Map of Ethiopia