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Sana'a is probably no more or less difficult to navigate than any other Arabian or African capital. But the weaving and turbulent chaos of the streets here might leave your head spinning for a few days. Thankfully we didn't have to drive, we were driven by our hosts, the coffee exporters Sowaid. Senior Sowaid was calm and plodding by Yemeni standards (which would translate to completely insane on a US roadway). Ali, his son, was a menace to all, sheer terror when he found any open road. Then there was George M. George, transplant from India, driving the micro-micro-van plastered with ads for Karcher Power Washers (Sowaids other business). And each night we retreated to the exclusive Sheraton hotel, which was awfully nice but the rooms rank between Motel 6 and Best Western. They had a swell pingpong table though.
Last updated: Thu, 2012-04-12 21:32 -
Harasi is another coffee region within a few hours of Sana'a. They have great coffee here, and more of the crop is terrace-grown than what we saw in Saihi the day before.
Last updated: Thu, 2012-04-12 20:26 -
We returned to Sana'a to do some coffee cupper training, and to have a nighttime stroll around the old city. basically we needed to buy tchotchkes and such.
Last updated: Thu, 2012-04-12 19:23 -
Our first visit to a coffee area was the Saih valley. The coffee from here is called Saihi, which is the normal conjugation here... coffee from Bani Mattar is Mattari, etc. This is coffee is different than the other origins we visited, because it is grown in the narrow confines of a valley, and it was the only place I saw the use of shade trees for the coffee in Yemen.
Last updated: Thu, 2012-04-12 20:47 -
We traveled to Hodeida, the port city for coffee in Yemen on the Red Sea. The old port city is Al Mohka (Al Mocha, Al Mahka) which is where the name Mocha coffee came from. Hodeida is not that appealing, and even at this mild time of the year is still so muggy compared to high-altitude Sana'a. There seems to be more Afro-Arab peoples here too.
Last updated: Thu, 2012-04-12 20:18 -
So basically we were on the main road between Hodeida and Sana'a, and we were going to meet farmers in the Haimi growing area. But we were flagged down and a turnout along the way by farmers from the Ismaili growing region (one of the most rugged regions, and known for intense coffee). They insisted we come with them to visit their coffee farms, have a meal, chew qat, and talk. How could we refuse? Well, in Yemen, you don't. So it was an ambush, a kidnapping ... but only in the friendliest of ways. What we were about to see was some of the most rugged terrain, incredbile stone terraces, most vertical roads (narrow too), a challenging hike, a great meal, hospitality, and no chance of getting back to Sana'a! So it turned into a Yemeni sleep-over, traditional style, on the floor. I also found out that, unless Duane was somehow channeling the prophet Muhammed in his sleep, the Sowaids are real sleep talkers. Imagine, I could have left Yemen and never known that.
Last updated: Thu, 2012-04-12 19:33 -
A collection of photographs along the way. Basically, the major coffee areas are all on near Sana'a, to the west. We stopped in small roadside towns to eat, to check out the qat markets, and (for me) to gawk a bit. This place is just so fantastic.
Last updated: Thu, 2012-04-12 20:38
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