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South America: Ecuador


Map of Ecuador

If you were not aware, Galapagos Islands are the property of Ecuador. Recently, there has been an awful lot of Galapagos coffee, much of it Organic certified, being offered by brokers. Unfortunately, I have not cupped a lot that did not possess a defect in the cup, some very strong defects quite often. I am gald it is organic coffee, but am also concerned about the ecology of coffee production in a sensitive environment. I am also a little concerned that all the coffee from Galapagos truly is from the Island, since Ecuador grows a considerable amount of coffee on the mainland and has some difficulty selling it as specialty coffee. Perhaps I can resolve these concerns some time in the future, but, while initially an interesting offer, the samples have yet to possess positive cup character.

Coffee has a long history in Ecuador: it was introduced in the early 19th century and became its main export in the early 20th century. But coffee from Ecuador has never been included in the list of Specialty Coffee origins, mostly because of poor harvesting and processing practices. As other Ecuadorian exports (banana, oil, shrimp) exceeded coffee in export importance, hope that the quality of the coffee would improved became less. They managed to continue to ship low grade arabica and robusta coffees, finding a market among the istitutional and commecial roasters of the U.S. and Europe who are more concerned with price than cup quality. But coffee employed about 15% of the rural population.

Ecuador has everything it takes to grow great coffee. Positioned between Colombia and Peru, the interior mountain ranges have plenty of altitude, weather patterns, and ideal soil for quality coffee production. But a great coffee can be ruined at any stage in the process, from the tree to the cup. Many of the problens are with careful adherence to quality standards in the wet-processing, drying, resting (reposo) and then dry-milling of the coffee. A bit too much fermentation in the wet mill tanks, a rain storm drenching the coffee when it is on the drying patios, moist low-altitude conditions during the reposo, or badly adjusted dry-mill equipment can all ruin a wonderful coffee. Poor infrastucture, delays in shipment, tainted shipping containers ... there is one way to produce good coffee and a thousand ways to ruin it! So the new efforts by the Ecuadorian Agriculture Dewpartment and farmer Co-operatives focus on education, improved equipment, and adherence to high standards. The results are showing, and we are now stocking an excellent Ecuadorian coffee to prove it ....

ESCafe Co-op members

Current Crop Comments:

Ecuador is an origin that I expect we will be seeing a lot more from in the coming years. I have a trip planned to Ecuador in late June '09, both to Loja and Galapagos. Right now we have the Puyango Loja coffee- which cups quite similarly to really fine Colombian coffee.


Our Ecuadorian Coffee Offerings:

 
Ecuador Puyango Loja
This is only the second time we have offered Ecuadorean coffee in our brief history, which is both odd and not-odd at all. It's strange that there isn;t great Ecuador coffee in the United States based on the huge potential for quality; great cultivars (nearly all Typica with some Bourbon and Caturra), altitude and climate. And it is not surprising at all, since there has been little economic incentive to grow high quality coffee nor marketing to support the sales of specialty lots from Ecuador. This lot is part of a project by Fundación Maquipucuna, an Ecuadorian NGO, in cooperation with the University of George and Rain Forest Alliance, working to reforest degraded areas and connect forest fragments in the Chocó-Andean corridor to help increase habitat for Neotropical migratory birds. They are trying to establish a new protected forest and enlarge shade coffee and cacao plantations under sustainable management in the Chocó-Andean corridor, helping the farmers rejuvenate shade trees over the coffee plants and to obtain Organic certification. Loja is the central city in the district by the same name, Charguarpamba is the subdistrict, and Puyango is the mark given by the producers. The dry fragrance is lively and clean, with some grape-like fruited accents. The wet aromas are floral and sweet, like a nice shampoo (perhaps that doesn't sound right, but that's what it recalls), with suggestions of hazelnut and apple as well. My lightest roasts were really great; peach fruit flavors, that hazelnut roast tone I mentioned before, and a fine balance between brighter alto notes and tenor-level flavors. It's not the most complex cup, nor the most intense, but a definite winner in the "crowd-pleaser" category. Darker roasts had a soft, thick chocolate roast flavor, creamy and balanced with good sweetness. Still, it was the light City-City+ roast that had the more dynamic cup. I looked back at the first-ever Ecuador review from several years ago, and saw that we offered it with very moderate scores, almost apologetically. What a difference ... I feel this is a very attractive cup, aromatically quite seductive, and rates well alongside finer Colombia offerings. Now, given recent disputes between the two countries, Colombians might not like that appraisal ...



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Ecuador Puyango Loja
$5.75$10.93$25.01$47.73$88.55
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Ripe coffee cherry entering the pulper, the first step in processing.
Country: Ecuador
Grade: SHG
Region: Central Highland: Charguarpamba, Loja Province
Mark: Puyango Loja, RFA certified
Processing: Wet-processed
Crop: January 2009 arrival
Appearance: .4 d/300gr, 17 Screen
Roast: City+: Darker roasts were good, but it was the City+, 10-20 seconds after first crack completed, that had the most range in flavor from high to low.
Compare to: Some relation to nice Colombia typica coffees, perhaps most similar to Huila lots.
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