Green Coffee Offerings : South America: Colombia |
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View Our Current Colombian Coffees |
Upcoming Crop CommentsOur Colombian micro-lots are here and we will keep posting them as we run through them. Carlos Imbachi is back! |
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![]() Yours truly, cupping coffee in Manizales, Colombia | Colombia is a diverse group of coffee origins, with Northern and Southern regions staggered in the crop cycle. Colombian coffee is highly marketed and widely available in the US. They have been largely successful at equating the name Colombian Coffee with "Good" Coffee. This is half-true. Colombian can be very balanced, with good body, brightness (acidity) and flavor. But much of it is a bit boring, and most of it that you find in Supermarket bins etc. is simply a decent clean cup with almost no aftertaste (if its fresh from the roaster, which is not likely). So, is there good Colombian coffee? Absolutely yes. It just takes work to find it. Good Colombian is rarely sold simply as Supremo or Excelso, a name that designates the size of the beans, the screen size. Colombian coffee that has more "cup character" can be a farm specific coffee, or pooled from particular regions and will have the regional name identifying it. Sometimes a generic Colombian just happens to cup really nice, but that's rare, and it requires cupping each lot to find the special one. In the past, Colombians were all sold based on bean size (Excelso, Supremo) unlike other Central American and South American coffees which are graded mostly on altitude. Grading by screen size doesn't make sense because a larger bean does not mean better cup quality. In fact, the presence of diverse bean sizes can (but not necessarily) result in better cup quality. Since we rate everything by the cup quality and all coffees are judged "blind", bean size is largely irrelevant, and doesn't enter into how I chose the following Colombians from the 30 to 40 samples I cup each year. All that is changing in the specialty coffee end of the market; we have come "light years" ahead in the last 5 years, offering micro-regional selections from small-holder coffee producing groups, and abandoning the senseless size-based grading system. We now have access to many more small, farm-specific lots. Part of the current crop quality is this: we can wait for the good coffee, not just go out and buy Colombia when we need it. That's the whole way we operate anyway; we wait for the peak of the harvest. And if you cup a lot of these micro-regional lots, in particular the Tolima, the South Huilas, the Cauca coffees and Narino, there is always a point where all factors converge, and the cup becomes exemplary. I have been to Colombia now many times - check out the travelogue section of the Coffee Library to see the photos from those trips. |
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note on Colombian selections: Coffee
from Colombia comes in all grades to suit different markets:
there are lower grades for commercial and food service applications,
generic medium grades, Specialty grades, and at highest end of
the spectrum there are specific appellations with designated
varietal and farm or micro-region. The later has only become
available in the last two years or so (before that many fine
coffees were pooled with not-so-fine lots to form large exportable
shipments). This means that the marginally Specialty grades,
pooled lots designated only by a general region like Huila, Medellin,
Antioquia, Cauca, etc. no longer represent the best of Colombian
coffee. These lots can be okay, but recent samples have showed
a tendency toward the aqua-pulp rapid milling process. The use
of non-traditional varietals like Variedad Colombian is also
a trend towards higher production detrimental to cup quality.
Our response is to carry the best Colombians we can find, traditional
varietals, farm and micro-regional lots, special selections.
I'll certainly cup the other lots too and if there's something
good we'll get it. But I think you won't see much pooled Colombians
on our list anymore (well, never say never!)... Tom
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Primary Growing Regions of Colombia: These are the regions our samples come from, and from these we chose the ones we feel are best in any given season ... |
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Popayan, Cauca |
Huila, San Augustin |
Antioquia, Medellin |
Quindio, Armenia |
Santander, Bucaramanga |
Magdelena, Sierra Nevada |
Nariņo |
Our Colombian Coffee Offerings
Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below. Check out the Sweet Maria's Coffee Home Roasting Forum for more conversation about home roasting this and other coffees.
This is a blend of coffees from small micro-producers in the Herrera and Rioblanco areas of Tolima department (state) in Colombia. Tolima is one of my favorite coffee origins in Colombia, and the Tolima microlot offerings we evaluate through our Colombia Farm Gate program are some of my highest rated. All of these farmers in the Chuchos lot are members of Asoceas Cooperative, who we also use as a source for some of our super farm-specific micro lots like the Las Florestales farm of Maximino Guterrez. The entire area of Herrera and Rioblanco is a remote zone that is difficult to access. Part of the issue is that Tolima is one of the last active FARC areas where the conflict between the government and the rebels continue. Sadly it is always the farmers who suffer. Still, our ability to work with Asoceas and identify excellent lots means local farmers can obtain premiums for excellent lots. We have designated our blend as "Los Chuchos de Tolima" as a riff on the first lot we called Los Pijaos de Tolima, since; after all, this is not a purebred single farm coffee but a blend of farms, and Chucho means "mutt!" The cup is not second-rate coffee though: The aromatics here are very complex and sweet (which I attribute partly to the fact that we pay extra to have this coffee shipped in GrainPro-lined bags from origin). The dry fragrance has floral hints of hibiscus, as well as some red apple and flame grape, ensconced in a bed of milk chocolate scent. Adding the hot water, warm baked bread, scotch malt and baked apple come out. The fruit has a slightly winey ripe aspect, raisin sweetness, a hint of Kenya-type brightness and there is a nice caramel-butterscotch whiff on the break. The cup has a great sweet-savory quality. Raisin and fig sweetness dominate, and spicy nutmeg comes through in the finish. It keeps an even keel between brightness, body and finish, with initially sweet sensation passing to bittersweet in the aftertaste. The mouthfeel is silky and has a nice weight to it, but I would not call the body heavy. As the cup cools, the finish has a pleasant dryness, slightly tart, something I would describe as apple skins. As it cools, that finish turns into a pleasant tannic note, suggesting black tea. There are dashes of cinnamon stick and more nutmeg notes as the cup cools down. It's a classic Tolima cup all the way; deeply fruited with raisiny sweetness, spice, and black tea. Even in the lighter roasts I tested (City, City+), there is a Noir character that comes out as the flavors linger. Full City roast is very nice, with a full, rounded mouthfeel, and cup flavors dominated by milk chocolate. But it seemed more one-dimensional than the nuanced lighter roasts. As SO espresso, the FC roast was fantastic!
This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.
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Archived Reviews
To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Colombia Coffee Archives.
2005-2006 | 2004 -2003 | 2001-2002 | Pre-2000 Tom's Sample Cupping Log | Moisture Content Readings This page is authored
by Thompson Owen and Sweet Maria's Coffee, Inc. and is not to be
copied or reproduced without permission
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Coffee research facilities at Cenicafe in Colombia






