Green Coffee : South America : Brazil |
||
View Our Current Brazilian Coffee Offerings |
Upcoming Crop CommentsWe are sourcing from Carmo de Minas area, which has some of the higher altitudes and real sweetness in the cup. Lots are arriving now, with a couple coming in a month or so. |
|
About Brazilian Coffee
| Brazil is a coffee giant . As Frank Sinatra sang, "They grow an awful lot of coffee in Brazil". It's the largest producer of low grade arabica coffee, and a lot of Conilon robusta too. Brazil: there is some in almost every espresso you drink. In fact, some espresso is 90% Brazil. And there is Brazil in most canned coffee and big roasters' blends. | ![]() |
But things are changing in Brazil. There's the big push on behalf of Brazilian coffee growing associations to re-create the image of Brazilian as exquisite and distinctive Specialty-level coffee. And some of it is true Specialty coffee, but the majority is still common, low-grade, low-grown arabica. There just isn't the extreme distinction from cup to cup that distinguishes one regional coffee from another. Attention to good farming and processing techniques has helped, but the coffee is grown at lower altitudes than most Specialty coffee, in non-volcanic soils, in non-forested areas that are sometimes originally grassland (a reason why the "shade-grown issue" really doesn't apply much to Brazil ---the coffee farming areas had little shade to begin with.) | |
Am I saying Brazilian coffee is bad --heck no! I love these high-quality Brazilian coffees, and you should try it as a Full City or even Vienna roast: it's great! And nothing touches a really good Dry-processed or Pulped-Natural Brazil as a base in Espresso blends. They produce more crema and body, adding sweetness and providing a great backdrop for the feature coffees. Brazil can be nutty, sweet, low-acid, and develop exceptional bittersweet and chocolate roast tastes. The caveat is, Brazils are not dense coffee seeds: they are grown at lower altitudes than Central American coffees. Hence the very dark roasts of Brazils pick up ashy, bittering flavors. For espresso, you can roast Brazils lighter, separately, or keep the entire blend at a Vienna roast or lighter: Northern Italian Espresso re: Illy's "Normale." Note that there are 3 methods of processing Brazil coffees of interest to us; Natural Dry- Process, Pulped Natural, and Semi-Washed. They produce different types of cups. The Natural has great body, chocolate, possibly fruity notes ... and it risks being earthier and more rustic in the cup. The Pulped Natural is when the coffee cherry skin is removed and the parchment, with a lot of the mucilage attached, is sun dried on patio or raised drying bed. This coffee cups like the fully Naturals but is a bit cleaner in the cup. The Semi-Washed uses a demucilage machine to remove the skin and some or all of the mucilage. So the Semi-Washed ranges in character from being identical to Pulped Natural to being similar to a Wet-processed coffee (clean cup, uniform, less body, less chocolate, a bit brighter). I like good Naturals- they have more intensity, produce more crema, but I have to cup them rigorously to watch for defective cup character. On the other end of things, really clean Semi-Washed, where a lot of the mucilage is removed, do not have Brazil character to me. Yes, these coffees score higher in the numbers, and they are now totally dominating the Cup of Excellence competition. But if you want a cleaner, brighter cup, the standard is set in other origins, not Brazil. Go buy a good Central American coffee. I want "origin character" from a coffee. I want intensity. I don't believe in a generic, universal "excellent" coffee to which all coffee origins should be compared. It's a bias I have, but for me it keeps coffees distinct, and preserves the uniqueness of the cup, and repects the coffee culture expressing itself through origin flavors. | Sul
Sul de Minas region - not a barren flatland |
|
|
Most quality Brazil I have found comes from the Sul de Minas, Mogiana, Cerrado and Matas de Minas regions, more specifically, from micro-climates within those regions. Cerrado region is, apparently, not a name many Brazilians recognize ... at last not those I have spoken with. Cerrado is a savana-like area, dry and flat, in Minas Gerais state. They produce a lot of coffee, and there are some unblended single farm lots that are good. Two microregions in Cerrado are of special interest: Chapadao de Ferro and Serra de Salita. People ask me about Santos coffee - Santos is a port, not a producing region. Coffee labeled Santos is pooled from market-grade lots and the lowest common denominator expresses itself as the primary cup character. Also, there is a lot of confusion online, perpetrated by coffee merchants (mostly innocent and unknowing) between region names, farms names, and cooperative names. For example, Monte Carmelo is a town in Cerrado, not a farm, and Cooxupe is a massive cooperative. The coffee you are actually getting in a bag of this is as unknown as buying Colombian Excelso. Sometimes, it used to be a decent cup ... but no more. It's a but random, since it does not rely on any solid, trackable relationship to a farm. In fact, a quick survey of green coffee sellers online reveals to me that not a single one currently offers a farm-specific coffee (well, except us ... all ours are from single farms). I am sorry of this sounds a little self-righteous, but the distinction here is very real, and expresses itself in very different levels of ongoing cup quality. | View my travelogues of Brazil Cerrado Cupping Competition 2004 and 2005 and trips through the Sul de Minas, Mogiana, and Matas de Minas coffee growing regions. You might also be intersted to read the our backissue newsletter Tiny Joy Jan-Feb '03: Brazil-O-Rama: excellent choices in Brazilian Coffee. Some notes about Brazil and espresso blends: As many people know, Brazil is a traditional "base" coffee for espresso blends in the Italian style, and they can be excellent as unblended, straight espresso too. The trick is that Brazils prefer a lower initial roast temperature and can turn quite ashy tasting when roasted too dark. My personal preference is that Brazils for espresso are rested quite a while after roasting - in fact I had a straight pulped natural I roasted to a light Vienna for espresso, and I kept testing the cup because 2 days after roasting it was too lively, nippy - almost like a baking soda effect on your tongue. After 18 days it became one of the deepest. heavy bodied espresso I ever had! I am not saying coffee should be rested that long after roasting (especially other methods like French Press, Drip etc, which fade after as little as 7 days!), but if you don't have a good initial experience with a Brazil espresso, don't toss it - try it after a week, or even two. As far as the type of Brazil, Illy is said to use 100% pulped natural and semi-washed. I much prefer a really good Natural dry-process - more crema, more chocolate, more body, and some fruit note. -Tom |
![]() Coffee all day, and even "Coffee Night" - a nightclub in smalltown Minas Gerais |
|||
Our Unroasted Brazilian Coffee Offerings
Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below.Check out the Sweet Maria's Coffee Home Roasting Forum for more conversation about home roasting this and other coffees.
This is a coffee from the Fazenda do Sertao, the farm of Nazareth Dias Pereira. It is located in Carmo de Minas, and was a farm we offered several years ago, as well as their Cup of Excellence winning lot last year. The coffee has placed 8 times in the Cup of Excellence. This coffee has consistently scored well on my cupping table in the past as well. This 235 hectare farm is situated at 1250 meters, and has a mix of varietals including Bourbon, Acaia, and Icatu. This lot is a blend of all these cultivars, not a variety-separated coffee.
The lighter roast dry fragrance has strong almond-hazelnut aspect and an interesting malty grain sweet note. There's a touch of tamari in there too, a more savory/umami tone. Add water and the wet aromatics become sweeter, and in the case of my darkest roast, much more chocolate-like rather than nutty. The cup has a nice clarity in light roasts that distinguishes this from other Sertao selections we have. There a sweet tea flavor, with classic nutty Brazil roast tone (hazelnut, macadamia) turning more toward cocoa powder in the darker levels, at Full City roast. There is a bit of tangerine in the light roasts, and a more blackberry fruit in dark roasts, at levels just before 2nd crack.
View Cupping Scores
This lot from Fazenda Santa Mariana is basically from a nice offer sample we received. I have not visited this farm, but enjoyed it's classic nutty-honey Brazil character and clean cup. The coffee producer is Glycia Ignez Teixeira Tibúrcio, who inherited this the family farm in 1998 and has been steadily improving the coffee trees. Santa Mariana dates to the 1800's. The farm is in Carmo da Cachoeira, Sul de Minas. It is near Tres Pontas and my favorite town called Varginha, the "area 53" of Brazil. The farm ranges from 900-1200 meters. The farm grows Acaia, Red Catuai, Yellow Catuai and Mundo Novo cultivars. This lot is a blend of all, although she does offer cultivar-separated lots. But sometimes the mix of varieties out-cups the separated types.
The dry fragrance ranges from nutty (walnut, walnut skins) to cocoa depending on roast level, with slight herbal undertones. The wet aroma has a honey accent with graham cracker and a strong nutty roast tone. Light roasts are surprisingly bright, crisp, with a touch of tangerine, malt and nut roast tones, and bee-pollen like honey notes. Darker levels have date sugar, fig, black walnut and cocoa. The finish is slightly tannic, like nut skins.
View Cupping Scores
This is a special micro-lot from Fazenda Sertao, designated Bastiao Nunes. It's all Yellow Bourbon variety, and was part of a special auction that Carmo coffees held a few months back. Fazenda Sertao has been a favorite coffee of ours for a long time. The farm is owned by Nazareth Dias Pereira, and located in Carmo de Minas. The coffee has placed 8 times in the Cup of Excellence, which indicates I am not the only one who thinks this farm has some great coffee. This 235 hectare farm is situated at 1250 meters average, and has a mix of varietals including Bourbon, Acaia, and Icatu. As mentioned, this auction lot is pure Yellow Bourbon, from the Bastiao Nunes block of the farm, located at 1300 meters. It was vacuum packed at origin to insure it arrived as fresh as the original auction samples.
Dry fragrance has an interesting savory sweetness, like tamari-flavored almonds, with a caramel-molasses sweetness, and chocolate pretzel in the darker roast levels. Wet aroma has a slight winey fruit, malty sweetness, pecan nut, and more umami-like notes as well. The cup is classic Brazil, loaded with nut roast tones in the lighter roasts, and cocoa-chocolate as you near second crack. But the Bastiao Nunes microlot is very clean for a pulped natural Brazil, with moderate orange-lemon brightness hinting at the higher than average altitude of the farm. The body is creamy, and the finish slightly tannic and dry with tea and walnut skins. There are pumpkin spice notes in the middle roast range, but Full City was my favorite level, with combined creamy chocolate mouthfeel and a dusting of cocoa powder and orange pekoe tea. Straight espresso from Bastiao Nunes can be amazing we actually loved the City+ roast as espresso, although it was quite bright, it was very clean, raisiny sweet, almost floral.
View Cupping Scores
Peaberry lots normally do not come in large amounts, but when you produce as much coffee as Brazil, it figures you can generate a lot of peaberries as well. Peaberry is simply the rounded-form coffee seed that occurs when one of the embryotic beans in the fruit fails to grown. Instead of needing to share the space in the fruit with a friend, the peaberry spreads out and fills out the available space in the fruit. The peaberries are separated from the normal flat beans in dry milling the coffee, before export. Peaberry don't necessarily have better cup quality than flats, but with this lot from Mogiana, I felt they did, absolutely.
This is a classic natural Brazil flavor profile, rustic and thick bodied. The dry fragrance has aromatic wood notes of cedar and a sweet pipe tobacco scent. Adding hot water, the wet aroma has savory notes, tamari, toasted almond, and heavily-browned sugar. The cup is in line with the flavor profile of dry-process Brazil, with nutty and cocoa roast tones, big body, and a slight drying finish. It also has a brightness and clean taste I don't see often in Mogiana naturals, with a unique dried apple note. (Perhaps this is the result of being a peaberry, as I do see increased brightness in peaberry coffees from other origins sometimes). There's a brown sugar sweetness as well, that gives dimension to the chocolate-cocoa aftertaste, with a touch of sarsaparilla. It's a really nice, crowd-pleaser coffee... uncomplicated, low in acidity, and great in espresso blends as well.
View Cupping Scores
2005-2006 | 2004 -2003 | 2001-2002 | Pre-2000 Tom's Sample Cupping Log | Moisture Content Readings This page is authored
by Thompson Owen and Sweet Maria's Coffee, Inc. and is not to be
copied or reproduced without permission
|










