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Costa Rica  

Costa Rica Tres Rios WP Decaf
Country: Costa Rica Grade: SHB Region: West Valley, Tres Rios Region Mark: Tres Rios SHB Lot
Processing: Wet-processed Crop: December 2006 arrival Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen Varietal: Catuai, Caturra, Costa Rica 95
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.3 Notes: It used to be that water decafs were generic coffees; you really couldn't verify that the source coffee was a good cup, or even specialty coffee at all! It was possible for large roasters to send their own lots to Swiss Water for decaffeination, but that was impossible for everyone else. Now we have been able to buy coffees that we cup as regular coffees and verify the quality, then re-cup after decaffeination to see the effect of the process. This is from the West Valley area, Tres Rios region (where Magnolia comes from) and is from the La Laguna mill. It really has appropriate Costa Rica cup character: This comes through very well after the Water Process decaf in this cup. It is medium-bodied with a bright snap to it and good sweetness. I get sweet pepper hints too, like red bell pepper and even a touch of cayenne in the finish. The body is light, but seems totally appropriate for the snappy, lively cup character. What is most distinct about this cup is the nutty roast character that emerges at a City+ roast stage and is the dominant theme through the Full City+ stage. And Vienna roast of this lot is very nice too ... It also makes a good addition to a decaf blend to add a higher note to the cup, for example, a blend of 50% Sulawesi or Sumatra for the bass notes and 50% CR Decaf for the brighter notes.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.3
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.4
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.3
Body - Movement (1-5) 2.8
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.3
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 0 Roast: City + is ideal to maintain the brightness in the cup - Nuttiness persists from City+ to Full City+
add 50 50 Compare to: Bright, clean, nutty decafs like the Panama decafs
Score (Max. 100) 84.4 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild / Nutty

Costa Rica Dota Tarrazu -Hermosa
Country: Costa Rica Grade: SHB Region: Dota, Tarrazu Mark: Coopedota RL, Hermosa
Processing: Wet-Process Crop: August 2006 Arrival Appearance: .4 d/300gr, 18 Screen Varietal: Caturra
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.6 Notes: Dota is a sub-region of Tarrazu, a valley that is, well, sort of bowl-like. Not only is the altitude exceptionally high (5,000 to 6,000 feet) but the physical shape of the valley also contributes to a unique cup character that (if you follow our track record buying Dota coffees) is extraordinary. Caturra culitivar may contribute to the fruited note in the cup, and altitude makes this bright, snappy acidity possible, so the winey notes we might attribute to the special weather and soil of the Dota microregion. The dry grounds have a very chocolate bittersweet to them, but there are toasted almond accents too. When the hot water hits the grounds, I get a pleasantly surprising black tea aroma laced with floral notes. The City+ roast I did of this coffee is outstanding: I get blackberry tea flavors, floral elements, and that unique winey fruit found in great Dota coffees. It's sweet from start to finish, with fairly light body. I get some mint herbal hints in the finish, fading to red grape. This is an excellent Dota coffee, with true origin character (or terroir, if you prefer the wine language). The long aftertaste has this pesistent clean berry-to-grape sweetness, a cleanly disappearing cup.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.8
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.7
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.8
Body - Movement (1-5) 2.8
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.8
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 1 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild-to-medium intensity/winey fruited notes, berry, tea  
add 50 50 Roast: City+ is recommended for the delicate cup I describe, but FC has great chocolate bittersweetness.
Score (Max. 100) 87.5 Compare to: Very Dota-like in character, bright, berry like winey notes.

Costa Rica Pulp Natural - La Candelilla
Country: Costa Rica Grade: SHB Region: Tarrazú Mark: Hacienda La Candelilla
Processing: Pulp Natural (Brazil Style) Process Crop: July 2006 Arrival Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen Varietal: Caturra, Red Catuai, Arabigo
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.5 Notes: La Candelilla is an estate located in La Sabana on the River Pirris, west of San Marcos de Tarrazu and 35 miles SE of San Jose. The coffee is grown at an altitude of between 1,200 and 1,900 meters (very high for Costa Rica). It's an old farm; La Candelilla was established by Victor Mora around 1900, while the mill was opened by the current owners, Rafael and Lucia Sanchez, in the summer of 2000. The owners of La Candelilla are committed to environmentally friendly policies in the cultivation and processing of the good quality coffee. And they are willing to take on some unusual processing techniques, which is what we have here. This is a "Miel" coffee (as it is called traditionally in C. America), processed using a Brazil-style method called Pulp Natural. "Miel" (meaning honey) is rare (and a bit risky) in Central America. When it was good, this coffee had great body, a husky sweet "wild-honey" cup with moderate acidity. It is great as a brewed/press coffee, it is great as straight espresso (if the brightness/acidity in the cup can be moderated by roasting technique), it is great in espresso blends, especially with top quality Brazils. To do this method, you pulp the skin off the coffee cherry, and without removing the fruity mucilage layer, sun-dry the remaining seed on raised beds, called air drying or African beds in other places. The long contact the fruit has with the parchment layer changes the character of the green coffee inside the parchment, and has this unique effect on the cup. The Candelilla estate pulped natural "Miel" is different from the El Salvador we have had. I cupped this coffee the traditional way at several degrees of roast, the darker ones intended more for my espresso machine than brewing. But the aromas from the dark roasts were so unique, with the expected carbony pungency, but also lively spice aromas, sweet and fruited. At City+ roast the coffee had the husky "miel" sweetness to it. With more roast, warming spice and chocolate emerged to back up the fruits. Darker roast Costa Ricans have never made sense to me as brewed coffee (they get too thin, too insipid) but here were darker (FC+ to light Vienna) roasts that had heft, complexity, and great body. There's a waxy, oily mouthfeel to back up the considerable complexity. I did not go to Full French on this (I never do, even my espresso isn't roasted that dark), and the real peak of flavor was about 15 seconds into 2nd crack on my drum sample roaster. In espresso, the Candelilla is a bit acidic for a straight shot (since it is a true Tarrazu coffee from high elevation), but is great as a 33% component in espresso blends. You can also roast it in a way that mutes the acidity a bit, and get good single-estate espresso shots.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.2
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.3
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.5
Body - Mouthfeel (1-5) 4.2
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.4
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 0 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium to bold intensity / at darker roasts - complexity, body, ripe fruit and chocolate
add 50 50 Roast: I like Full City+, for brewed and press coffee, and a bit darker too (Light Vienna, about 15 seconds into 2nd crack). The Full City or Viena espresso is intense.
Score (Max. 100) 86.1 Compare to: A very different coffee from Costa Ricans, great for darker roasts. You can read more about La Candelilla Estate here.

Costa Rican "SM Select" Peaberry
Country: Costa Rica Grade: SHB Region: Dota, Tarrazu Mark: Special Sweet Maria's Selection (see below)
Processing: Wet Process Crop: August 2006 Arrival Appearance: 1 d/300gr, Peaberry screen Varietal: Caturra
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.3 Notes: This is the third year we have offered a really special Peaberry lot we had prepared for us with the the help of an extremely fine cupper in Costa Rica, and an excellent mill. Can we call it a "tradition" yet? This year, we have focused on Dota, Tarrazu for our special Peaberry, and the results are a Costa RIca coffee with excellent winey fruit notes and aftertaste. Once again, I have to be a bit vague about the friends who have helped us select this lot, but when you think of extremely high quality Costa Rican coffees, the correct name will come to mind. They were willing to hand-select peaberries from lots through this excellent Tarrazu mill and assemble the lot based on overall cup profile of these coffees. The project was overseen by a true "master cupper" and this resulting coffee is more a tribute to his abilities than to anything I did. (I suppose I had the good sense to start the project!) Just like a master vintner would combine wines made from particular parts of the vineyard, he has created a really complex cup with a lot more character and intensity that many Costa Rican offerings. And there is a lot to be done in the roaster with this coffee, with fantastic results for those with the ability to slow the roast in the interstice between first and second crack. I performed a lot of roast tests on this coffee and have good results through the whole roast spectrum. FC+ and even light Vienna roast are tangy, pungent and very chocolaty. But my comments are going to be for the other end of the roast range: City roast (roasting stopped promptly at end of 1st crack). Here the coffee has a rather textured and uneven surface appearance (see link below), and I was a little surprised to see some seed-to-seed unevenness, but this is roasting for maximum cup quality ... not a beauty contest! City roast had exactly what I hoped to find in a great Dota Tarrazu coffee: concord grape sweetness, an almost tannic edge, and winey accent. I also get cherry hints, almond and hazelnut, but it is the flavors that relate to grape that I find compelling here. In some coffees, these can come from wet-processing errors, from overfermentation, or overly ripe (crimson) coffee cherry. But here it is related to the soil and climate of the Dota Tarrazu subregion. It is the "correct character" for Dota, if we can sound so proper for a moment, and in that way it is a rewarding find.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.3
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.7
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.8
Body - Mouthfeel (1-5) 3.4
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 9
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 1 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild to Medium intensity / Winey fruit notes, nuts
add 50 50 Roast: See the notes above - I prefer it at a light City roast, stopped promptly just as 1st crack concludes. I have some pictures to demonstrate this roast
Score (Max. 100) 87.5 Compare to: A nuanced cup, mild but compelling. These merit a +1 correction.

Costa Rica Tarrazú - Hacienda La Minita
 
Country:
Costa Rica
Grade:
SHB
Region:
Tarrazú
Mark:
La Minita
Processing:
Washed
Crop:
May 2006 Arrival
Appearance:
0 d/300gr
16/17scr
Varietal:
Hibrido Typica, Catuaí, Caturra
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.7
Notes: La Minita is a pedigree coffee for sure. You can open countless coffee books (Kummer's Joy of Coffee and Knox's Coffee Basics to name two) and read endless praise of the Bill McAlprin's La Minita farm and their exacting standards. It is so well thought of that at SCAA seminars I heard it referred to by 3 separate speakers: " When you cup the finest coffees, like a La Minita for instance ..." and so on. What's neat is that La Minita really does stand up as tall as its reputation (unlike JBM's, some Hawaiians, etc.). And it does so not by conking you over the head with its power. It's actually milder in acidity compared to some other Costa Rican coffees from the Tarrazú region. What it has is a refined sweetness in the cup, balance. It's a very mild coffee and each time I roast it and every time I brew it I feel like I am on the verge of discovering something new there. For me, it has a fresh red apple fruitiness to it, and in a slightly darker roasts it turns to a winey-berry flavor. There's some spice, hints of cinnamon and anise, and in the lighter roasts an almondy roast taste with vanilla hints. The aromatics are sweet and clean. It's always an elegant, refined, clean cup (it has something we call "great transparency" in cupping), but keep the roast light if you can (see roast notes below). The farm itself is a model of perfection in terms of technical standards and beauty. The coffee is milled and prepared meticulously and is not brokered by an indifferent third party, but by Hacienda La Minita themselves. It's also a model for how quality can sustain super-premium prices in a very unstable coffee market. The La Minita model is so successful that they begin to apply the same exacting standards to other coffees, and yielding premium prices.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.7
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.8
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.5
Body - Movement (1-5) 2.8
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.6
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 0.0
add 50 50.0
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild intensity / Clean, delicate , sweet cup.
Roast: City to Full City+: My preference with the La Minita is for a light City roast beacuse there are more floral notes in the cup, but FC has a great sweetness too.
Score (Max. 100) 86.1
Compare to: The epitome of delicate, refined, clean Central American coffee.

Costa Rican La Magnolia SWP Decaf
Country: Costa Rica Grade: SHB Region: Tres Rios Mark: La Magnolia
Processing: Wet-processed, SWP Decaf Crop: May 2006 arrival  Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 16-17 Screen Varietal: Catuai and Caturra
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.0

Notes: This is the first time we have been able to offer the exact same lot of Costa Rican estate coffee in both Decaf and non-Decaf. And cupping them side-by-side, it is remarkable how much the sweet, crisp, clean, bright La Magnolia cup character has survived the decaffeination process. This is going to sound ridiculous, but this coffee has a lot of "coffee flavor". I just don’t know how else to describe the clean, balanced charm of this cup profile, and it has been like this for years. We have been stocking the La Magnolia, a coffee milled to exacting standards, for quite a few years now. The coffee comes from a small beneficio, and used to be sold exclusively in Europe. And year after year this mill is producing a consistently excellent cup under the classic La Magnolia trade name. Each year I put it up against all the other Costa samples in a blind cupping, and it simply shimmers. By now it's no surprise when I turn over the I.D. card for the sample and see it's the La Magnolia. The wet aromatics turn much more lively and dynamic, with citrus-flower blooms and the smell of sweet bread baking. The cup has a light body and a mild intensity to match, a beautifully delicate and refined cup. It has nippy citrus flavors with just a twist of rind, a crystalline sugar sweetness, and a beautifully sweet finish. Roasted to a City+, this is one of the most beautiful and delicate coffees my palate has had the pleasure of enjoying. It is especially true with the La Magnolia that any dirtiness in your brewing system will show up very clearly in this cup, about as desirable as stepping on a thorn ... so keep your stuff clean and enjoy this sweet nuanced cup! I think it's a more complex cup than last year, but still has the top end of the flavor spectrum, that crystal clear brightness that defines the really good Costa Rican coffees.

Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.2
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.7
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.3
Body - Movement (1-5) 2.9
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.3
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 0.0 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild intensity / Delicate acidity, floral and citric
Add 50 50.0 Roast: City Roast: You lose the delicate bright flavors if you roast this too dark. This is more true for the SWP Decaf version of La Magnolia than for the non-decaf!
Score (Max. 100) 85.3 Compare to: More complex than the usual Tres Rios coffees, a bright, clean cup with good spice and fruit.

Costa Rica SHB WP Decaf
Country: Costa Rica Grade: SHB Region: West Valley Mark: Tres Rios SHB Lot
Processing: Wet-processed Crop: Oct 2005 arrival Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen Varietal: Catuai, Caturra, Costa Rica 95
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3 Notes: It used to be that water decafs were generic coffees; you really couldn't verify that the source coffee was a good cup, or even specialty coffee at all! It was possible for large roasters to send their own lots to Swiss Water for decaffeination, but that was impossible for everyone else. Now we have been able to buy coffees that we cup as regular coffees and verify the quality, then re-cup after decaffeination to see the effect of the process. This is from the West Valley region (where La Magnolia comes from) and is from the La Laguna mill. It really has appropriate Costa Rica cup character: This comes through very well after the Water Process decaf in this cup. It is medium-bodied with a bright snap to it and good sweetness. I get sweet pepper hints too, like red bell pepper and even a touch of cayenne in the finish. What is most distinct about this cup is the nutty roast character that emerges at a City+ roast stage and is the dominant theme through the Full City+ stage. And Vienna roast of this lot is very nice too ... It also makes a good addition to a decaf blend to add a higher note to the cup, for example, a blend of 50% Sulawesi or Sumatra for the bass notes and 50% CR Decaf for the brighter notes.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.2
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.1
Body - Movement (1-5) 2.8
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 0 Roast: City + is ideal to maintain the brightness in the cup - Nuttiness persists from City+ to Full City+
add 50 50 Compare to: Bright, clean, nutty decafs like the Panama decafs
Score (Max. 100) 82.7 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild / Nutty

Costa Rican Dota - Conquistador
Country: Costa Rica Grade: SHB Region: Dota, Tarrazú Mark: El Conquistador
Processing: Wet-processed Crop: July 2005 arrival Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 16-17 Screen Varietal: Caturra
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.2 Notes: Dota is a small subregion of the Tarrazú valley, more remote than the areas where most of the coffee is planted. And for years this particular coffee, El Conquistador, went to a single roaster in Germany. Great Dota coffees are fairly small sized seeds, with greater density due to the high altitudes they are cultivated at. Some roasters used to believe that the unique Dota cup character was the result of extra fermentation times at the mill during the wet-processing of the coffee. But it fact it is processed the same way that other Tarrazú coffees are, with the same fermentation times. The difference is in the unique soils that are found in the Dota micro-region of Tarrazú. We have stocked this coffee for several years now and in each blind cupping to new-crop Costas it is always a standout (but often in a slightly different way). This lot of Dota Conquistador from later in the crop (new crop is due next April) A recommendation: because we are late int he crop cycle with this coffee, don't overstock your cupboard. Buy what you need for the next month or so.. It is not tired in the cup, but I found the light City roast to be a bit lacking compared to early in the season. But this is a Costa Rica for Full City, FC+ or even Vienna. At these roast levels, especially FC or FC+, the cup has a really nice chocolate bittersweet, with a fruited/winey aspect in the background. The body is medium but has a fine, silky testure.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.3
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.0
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.5
Body - Movement (1-5) 3.4
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.6
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 0.0 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild intensity / Great body, slightly winey and berry, clean.
add 50 50.0 Roast: Full City to Full City+; this is a later crop coffee and I don't like the lighter roasts here, but a FC to FC+ is a great cup! It has chocolate, silky body, and a fruity-winey backdrop.
Score (Max. 100) 85.0 Compare to: Deep Costa Rican coffees, with good chocolate roast taste at FC or FC+ roast levels

Costa Rica La Candelilla "Miel"
Country: Costa Rica Grade: SHB Region: Tarrazú Mark: Hacienda La Candelilla
Processing: Pulp Natural (Brazil Style) Process Crop: July 2005 Arrival Appearance: .1 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen Varietal: Caturra, Red Catuai
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.2 Notes: La Candelilla is an estate located in La Sabana on the River Pirris, west of San Marcos de Tarrazu and 35 miles SE of San Jose. The coffee is grown at an altitude of between 1,200 and 1,900 meters (very high for Costa Rica). It's an old farm; La Candelilla was established by Victor Mora around 1900, while the mill was opened by the current owners, Rafael and Lucia Sanchez, in the summer of 2000. The owners of La Candelilla are committed to environmentally friendly policies in the cultivation and processing of the good quality coffee. And they are willing to take on some unusual processing techniques, which is what we have here. This is a "Miel" coffee, processed using a Brazil-style method called Pulp Natural. "Miel" (meaning honey) is rare (and risky) in Central America. When it was good, this coffee had great body, a husky sweet "wild-honey" cup with moderate acidity. It is great as a brewed/press coffee, it is great as straight espresso (if the brightness/acidity in the cup can be moderated by roasting technique), it is great in espresso blends, especially with top quality Brazils. To do this method, you pulp the skin off the coffee cherry, and without removing the fruity mucilage layer, sun-dry the remaining seed on raised beds, called air drying or African beds in other places. The long contact the fruit has with the parchment layer changes the character of the green coffee inside the parchment, and has this unique effect on the cup. The Candelilla estate pulped natural "Miel" is different from the El Salvador we have had. I cupped this coffee the traditional way at several degrees of roast, the darker ones intended more for my espresso machine than brewing. But the aromas from the dark roasts were so unique, with the expected carbony pungency, but also lively spice aromas, sweet and fruited. At City+ roast the coffee had the husky "miel" sweetness to it. With more roast, warming spice and chocolate emerged to back up the fruits. Darker roast Costa Ricans have never made sense to me as brewed coffee (they get too thin, too insipid) but here were darker (FC+ to light Vienna) roasts that had heft, complexity, and great body. There's a waxy, oily mouthfeel to back up the considerable complexity. I did not go to Full French on this (I never do, even my espresso isn't roasted that dark), and the real peak of flavor was about 15 seconds into 2nd crack on my drum sample roaster. In espresso, the Candelilla is a bit acidic for a straight shot (since it is a true Tarrazu coffee from high elevation), but is great as a 33% component in espresso blends. You can also roast it in a way that mutes the acidity a bit, and get good single-estate espresso shots.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.2
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.3
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.5
Body - Mouthfeel (1-5) 4.4
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.4
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 0 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium to bold intensity / at darker roasts - complexity, body, ripe fruit and chocolate
add 50 50 Roast: I like Full City+, for brewed and press coffee, and a bit darker too (Light Vienna, about 15 seconds into 2nd crack). The Full City espresso is intense and maybe too bright.
Score (Max. 100) 86 Compare to: A very different coffee from Costa Ricans, great for darker roasts. You can read more about La Candelilla Estate here.

Costa Rica La Minita Tarrazú
 
Country:
Costa Rica
Grade:
SHB
Region:
Tarrazú
Mark:
La Minita
Processing:
Washed
Crop:
September 2005 Arrival
Appearance:
0 d/300gr
16/17scr
Varietal:
Hibrido Typica, Catuaí, Caturra
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.3
Notes: La Minita is a pedigree coffee for sure. You can open countless coffee books (Kummer's Joy of Coffee and Knox's Coffee Basics to name two) and read endless praise of the Bill McAlprin's La Minita farm and their exacting standards. It is so well thought of that at SCAA seminars I heard it referred to by 3 separate speakers: " When you cup the finest coffees, like a La Minita for instance ..." and so on. What's neat is that La Minita really does stand up as tall as its reputation (unlike JBM's, some Hawaiians, etc.). And it does so not by conking you over the head with its power. It's actually milder in acidity compared to some other Costa Rican coffees from the Tarrazú region. What it has is a refined sweetness in the cup, balance. It's a very mild coffee and each time I roast it and every time I brew it I feel like I am on the verge of discovering something new there. For me, it has a fresh apple fruitiness to it, and next time I get apple cider notes. There's some spice, sometimes cardamom, sometimes coriander, sometimes anise, and in the lither roasts an almondy roast taste with vanilla hints. The aromatics are sweet and clean. It's always a refined, clean cup, but keep the roast light if you can (see roast notes below). The farm itself is a model of perfection in terms of technical standards and beauty. The coffee is milled and prepared meticulously and is not brokered by an indifferent third party, but by Hacienda La Minita themselves. It's also a model for how quality can sustain super-premium prices in a very unstable coffee market. The La Minita model is so successful that they begin to apply the same exacting standards to other coffees, and yielding premium prices. Note the roast comments below ... we are now approaching the window of time (mid-December to late-March or so when new crop high-grown Costa Rican Tarrazu arrives.) when we run out of La Minita. The cup quality now suits a little more roast, a Full City, Full City+ or even light Vienna to develop darker nutty-chocolatey notes in the cup.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.3
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.7
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.3
Body - Movement (1-5) 3.0
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.5
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 0.0
add 50 50.0
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild intensity / Clean, delicate , sweet cup.
Roast: City to Full City+: My preference with the La Minita is for a light City roast early in the season (which is now ...April-October, roughly) and a bit darker from November through the new crop arrival, which is usually in April. I just think the early shipments are best roasted to accentuate the high notes in the cup, and later it is better to roast for the medium range. I also really like to blend 2 roasts of La Minita, one at City and one at Full City - delicious and a bit more complex!
Score (Max. 100) 85.1
Compare to: The epitome of delicate, refined, clean Central American coffee.

Costa Rican "SM Select" Peaberry
Country: Costa Rica Grade: SHB Region: Tres Rios Mark: Prepared for
Sweet Maria's
Processing: Wet Process Crop: Late June 2005 Arrival Appearance: 0 d/300gr, Peaberry screen Varietal: Caturra
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.3 Notes: For the second year, we are able to offer a really special Peaberry lot we had prepared for us with the the help of an extremely fine cupper in Costa Rica, and an excellent mill. This year, we have focused on Tres Rios for our special Peaberry (the Tarrazu crop was small this season), and the results are a Costa RIca coffee with excellent intensity and aftertaste. Once again, I have to be a bit vague about the friends who have helped us select this lot, but when you think of extremely high quality Costa Rican coffees, the correct name will come to mind. They were willing to hand-select peaberries from lots through this excellent Tres Rios mill and assemble the lot based on overall cup profile of these coffees. The project was overseen by a true "master cupper" at Beneficio del Tres Rios and this resulting coffee is more a tribute to his abilities than to anything I did. (I suppose I had the good sense to start the project!) Just like a master vintner would combine wines made from particular parts of the vineyard, he has created a really complex cup with a lot more character and intensity that many Costa Rican offerings. And there is a lot to be done in the roaster with this coffee, with fantastic results for those with the ability to slow the roast in the interstice between first and second crack. The dry fragrance from the ground coffee is impressive; a dusky, pungent chocolate with toffee sweetness. The aroma is sweeter, with lingering spicy hints of clove and cinnamon, and vanilla. In the cup, there's a caramelly body, perhaps more body than any Costa I have had as of late. There's mild rose-floral nuances in the lighter City+ roast, with roasted hazelnut and pepper pungency. A bit darker means a bit more pungent spice, and more bittersweet in the chocolate. It alternates between sweet and bittersweet long into the aftertaste (which is particularly long for a Costa Rican). Now, Costas are still mild to medium intensity, clean coffees, but this is a cup you can explore on your palate and find subtlety in ... and toying with roast levels and profiles yields some neat variations in the cup!
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.3
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.7
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.8
Body - Mouthfeel (1-5) 3.7
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 9
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 1 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium intensity / good body, long aftertaste, chocolate and nuts
add 50 50 Roast: See the notes above - I prefer it at a true Full City, stopped right on the verge of 2nd crack without entering it. It is a great cup lighter or darker than that, either a City+ or a Full City+ …
Score (Max. 100) 87.8 Compare to: A bold cup for a Costa in aftertaste and nice body. These merit a +1 correction.

Costa Rican Tres Rios - La Magnolia
Country: Costa Rica Grade: SHB Region: Tres Rios Mark: La Magnolia
Processing: Wet-processed Crop: June 2005 arrival  Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 16-17 Screen Varietal: Catuai and Caturra
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.5

Notes: This is going to sound ridiculous, but this coffee has a lot of "coffee flavor". I just don’t know how else to describe the clean, balanced charm of this cup profile, and it has been like this for years. We have been stocking the La Magnolia, a coffee milled to exacting standards, for quite a few years now. The coffee comes from a small beneficio, and used to be sold exclusively in Europe. And year after year this mill is producing a consistently excellent cup under the classic La Magnolia trade name. Each year I put it up against all the other Costa samples in a blind cupping, and it simply shimmers. By now it's no surprise when I turn over the I.D. card for the sample and see it's the La Magnolia. There are both mid-range floral and hazelnut hints in the dry fragrance, along with a mild secondary aroma of caraway seed. The wet aromatics turn much more lively and dynamic, with citrus-flower blooms and the smell of sweet bread baking. The cup has a light body and a mild intensity to match, a beautifully delicate and refined cup. It has nippy tangerine citrus flavors with just a twist of rind, a crystalline sugar sweetness, and a beautifully sweet finish. Roasted to a City+, this is one of the most beautiful and delicate coffees my palate has had the pleasure of enjoying. It is especially true with the La Magnolia that any dirtiness in your brewing system will show up very clearly in this cup, about as desirable as stepping on a thorn ... so keep your stuff clean and enjoy this sweet nuanced cup! I think it's a more complex cup than last year, but still has the top end of the flavor spectrum, that crystal clear brightness that defines the really good Costa Rican coffees.

Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.3
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.7
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.5
Body - Movement (1-5) 2.9
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.5
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 0.0 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild intensity / Delicate acidity, floral and citric
Add 50 50.0 Roast: City Roast: You lose the delicate bright flavors if you roast this too dark. But if you want a tangy dark roast with a light body …go for it.
Score (Max. 100) 86.3 Compare to: More complex than the usual Tres Rios coffees, a bright, clean cup with good spice and fruit.

Costa Rican Dota -El Conquistador
Country: Costa Rica Grade: SHB Region: Dota, Tarrazú Mark: CoopeDota, El Conquistador
Processing: Wet-processed Crop: June 2005 arrival Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 16-17 Screen Varietal: Caturra
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.2 Notes: Dota is a small subregion of the Tarrazú valley, more remote than the areas where most of the coffee is planted. And for years this particular coffee, El Conquistador, went to a single roaster in Germany. Great Dota coffees are fairly small sized seeds, with greater density due to the high altitudes they are cultivated at. Some roasters used to believe that the unique Dota cup character was the result of extra fermentation times at the mill during the wet-processing of the coffee. But it fact it is processed the same way that other Tarrazú coffees are, with the same fermentation times. The difference is in the unique soils that are found in the Dota micro-region of Tarrazú. We have stocked this coffee for several years now and in each blind cupping to new-crop Costas it is always a standout (but often in a slightly different way). This lot of Dota Conquistador is really exceptional, well-fruited, creamy and refined all at once. When this cup is piping hot, the first impression is a deep balance between low acids-brightness (especially for a Costa Rican from such high altitudes), and mild fruits. It is markedly different from other Costa Ricans; this is not a "nutty" coffee (a tough term to affix to coffees since it is dependent on the roast - some nuttiness is bad and is due to low-grown character or to the dreaded Catimor cultivar). The acidity is there, but it is very clean and registers itself in a very understated way. The body is exceptional and velvety, and cups range from milk chocolate to bittersweet depending on variations in the degree of roast. As the cup cools, it seems to reveal itself in layers. The brightness emerges a bit more. The caramel roast taste sweetens, and there's more than a hint of fresh berry in the finish. The berry in this cup is the clincher for me! It's subtle, it's very clean but it is there. And there's a slight winey quality to it too. This cup is mild overall (and that is meant in the best of ways), and infinitely charming - if you ever get tired of being clubbed over the head with the outrageous flavors from a coffee like Harar, turn to this casually cup seductive cup!
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.3
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.0
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.5
Body - Movement (1-5) 3.4
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 9.0
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 1.0 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild intensity / Great body, slightly winey and berry, clean.
add 50 50.0 Roast: City to Full City, a range of roasts work well on this coffee, and each reveal a slightly different roast taste that pairs well with the fruit: Roasted nuts in the lighter roasts, dark chocolate at Full City+ .
Score (Max. 100) 86.4 Compare to: Deep complex Costa Rican coffees, with distinct deep, clean character that makes it unique among the best quality CR coffees…

Costa Rican Organic - La Amistad
Country: Costa Rica Grade: SHB Region: La Amistad Mark: Hacienda
La Amistad
Processing: Wet-processed Crop: March 05 New Crop Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 16/17scr Varietal: Caturra
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.0

Notes: Hacienda La Amistad is located out there in coffee farm "lonesome town," isolated from the large well-known Costa Rica growing regions (Tarrazu, Tres Rios, Dota, Wwest Valley, etc.) near the in the La Amistad nature preserve. (Click here for a map -red dot is farm.) The La Amistad farm is located above 1200 meters and is next to the border between Costa Rica and Panama, in fact I have walked into the La Amistad nature preserve from Finca Hartmann in the Panama region of Volcan. This farm has been a family farm for generations and the family has kept much of it as natural forest. It is now a "National Private Protected Area" called Las Tablas, which forbids people from hunting, extracting wood or doing any damage to the area. The reserve is located next to the National Park, La Amistad, one of the few National Parks between two countries and is the largest reserve area in Costa Rica. It is also the location of the new La Amistad Biosphere. Coffee is the main crop of the farm, but it also is largely self-sufficient, with some of the other activities contributing to the quality of the coffee; there are organic vegetable gardens on the estate, growing jalapeno and sweet peppers to make their own organic salsa. The farm has plenty of native shade trees, and in addition to these, Erythrina and leguminous trees were added for a supply of Nitrogen to the coffee system. The coffee from The streams from the rain forest supply the water for washing the coffee as well as the power source for the farm, due to it's own hydro-electrical plant. The fertilizers for the coffee plants come from composting the waste from the animals, the cherry pulp, leaves, and ashes. The coffee is dried on cement patios as weather conditions permit and is then sent for milling, which is done to our specific and very strict standards. Now, I admit, I have been under-whelmed by the La Amistad in recent years. It' is so mild it falls flat on it's face; no muscle, no scructure. But I always cup everything despite my own opinions and proclaimations ... and what I find here is an early lot that is clean, sweet, balanced, with really nice nut and milk chocolate roast tastes. To me this means 2 things: It is a great breakfast coffee and it's a crowd-pleaser; you'll like it, family will like it, grandma will like it. And it brews verrrrry nice in a vacuum brewer too.

Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.3
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.0
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.3
Body - Movement (1-5) 3.4
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.3
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 0.0 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild intensity / Great balance, milk chocolate roast taste (City+ Roast)
add 50 50.0 Roast: City+: see notes above. I don't think this is a great Costa for dark roasts, but it does do a nice single-Estate espresso at Full City+
Score (Max. 100) 84.3 Compare to: Balanced, crowd-pleasing, approachable Central American coffee; the "classic" clean cup profile.

Dominican Republic  

See the 2001-2002 Review Archive


Ecuador 

See the 2003-2004 Archive


El Salvador  is filed under S for Salvador
Ethiopia 

Ethiopia FTO Dry-Process Sidamo
Country: Ethiopia Grade: 5 Region: Sidamo Mark: Oromia Co-op,
Certified Organic and Fair Trade
Processing: Dry-processed Crop: December 2006 arrival Appearance: 1.6 d/300gr,
17-18 Screen
Varietal: Heirloom Moka Longberry seedstock
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.5 Notes: This dry-processed coffee from the Sidamo region has a husky character, more of the typical flavors that are inherent to natural dry-processed coffees: earthy, a little hidey, pungent, fruity, and with a very long aftertaste. Only in the past few years have Organic and Fair Trade coffees come from Ethiopia, and all are from a single huge cooperative called the Oromia co-op. They represent many small farms in many regions, and while the regions are certainly kept distinct (Sidamo, Yirgacheffe, Etc) the individual farms are too small to sell each coffee as discrete lots. So some of these pooled co-op lots can be pretty good, and a few are excellent. It takes cupping to sort through all the offerings, and this year I found 2 lots that were really nice, one dry-processed coffee from Sidamo and one wet-processed coffee from Yirgacheffe (although both are totally different in the cup). My warning about this Sidamo, some cups are a little too funky for me, earthy, hidey and a touch musty. Others cups are pleasurably potent, with that touch of wildness but not too much. It is not at all unexpected to have variation batch to batch, bag to bag, and cup to cup with a natural dry-processed coffee like this. For me, it is not a drawback - I like to taste the differences between the batches I roast! All cups are heavily fruited, like dried unsulphered natural apricot. ( In terms of fruit, the majority of my roasts had that wild, dried blueberry note ... but not every roast, nor every cup, so it is worth mentioning but not dwelling upon too much). There's everything else in here too; exotic spice (cardamom allspice). It's intense stuff... As far as variable cups goes, this is true with all dry-processed coffees, and always true with the Ethiopian dry-processed. It's just part o