Green Coffee Offerings : Islanda : Hawaii |
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View Our Current Hawaii Coffees |
Upcoming Crop CommentsWe had some interesting Hawaii selections in 2012, and are looking for similar results in 2013. |
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About Hawaiian Coffee
![]() ![]() Skip and Rita Cowel, with Maria |
Ah, Hawaii... what a nice place. They grow nuts, fruit, and coffee. The coffee is expensive. It is mild (sometimes too mild) or it can be wonderful! It can be terrible and flat. The best coffees cost a lot ...the worst cost way too much. So the goal with Hawaiians is to quit thinking that all Hawaiian coffee is good, and to realize that only a handful of coffees deserve the high price in terms of cup quality (you can easily argue that all deserve a high price in terms of the care and labor expended in producing them). And frankly, you must pay quite a bit for the truly great small-farm Kona. We had occasionally offered coffees from Maui, Molokai, and Kauai. But these are not grown like true small-farm Estate grade Kona coffees, nor do they taste like them. Kona isn't grown at impressive altitudes compared to other coffee origins, but on Maui and Kauai, coffee is grown at exceptionally low elevations. Also, most Kona is a special cultivar, Kona Typica, a traditional varietal that cannot be grown at low elevations.Recently, we found out that Ka'u coffees have come a long way, and the lots from Will and Grace Tabios' farm are excellent. So Ka'u is a region with soild quality potential. In a historical sense, coffees like Kona are the pinnacle of a particular definition of what "good coffee" is ... clean, pleasant, mild, good aftertaste. This is a notion of "good coffee" handed down from a time when low-grade coffee was called Brazil Rio and it had a seriously foul, dirty taste (so distinctly awful it is still called Rioy in defective coffee terminology). The best coffees were considered the polar opposite; island coffees -- mild, delicate and clean. Certain Specialty Coffees we now appreciate as intense and desirable cups, Yemeni coffees, Ethiopian Harar, Dry-processed Sumatras for example, would be considered terrible in this definition. If you love these intense coffees, Kona may seem too light, too simple, too mild. The even scores in the mid-80s indicate balance and solid quality. Consider this when you taste Kona coffees. More Kona Coffee History and Information | Kona Cupping 2004 | Kona Cupping 2005 | Kona Coffee Festival web site |
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Flowering arabica blossoms |
Ripe Kona Typica coffee cherry ready for hand-picking |
... the opposite of a small family farm on Kona: the Kauai Estate's mechanical picking system. |
Yours truly and my favorite spitoon, judging at the Kona Cupping Competition. |
Our Unroasted Hawaiian Coffee Offerings:
Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below. Check out the Sweet Maria's Coffee Home Roasting Forum for more conversation about home roasting this and other coffees.
Kona Coffee is grown only in the district of Kona on the west side of the Big Island of Hawaii. While coffee is also grown on other islands (Kauai, Maui, Oahu), it does not generally receive the same care and attention in the process as true small-farm Kona coffees. Kowali (which means Morning Glory in Hawaiian) is a moderate-sized Kona farm with the right kind of altitude to produce exceptional coffee. Skip and Rita Cowell are the owners of this 12 acre farm, up an old-time coffee road winding along the steep hillsides of Honaunau in Southern Kona. It has been consistently acclaimed one of the top 10 coffees in Kona and placed in the Kona Coffee Competition. "The funny thing about that," Rita told me a long time back, "is that I didn't enter the competition!" Only later did she go on to enter it and won first prize in the category for "larger" farms ... which is all relative. By all measures, Kowali is very small. The coffee is grown on carefully tended land, using no pesticides and 100% hand picked. It has been recognized by the Kona Soil and Water Conservation District for continuing conservation practices. Skip is an expert in this area and lectures on Soil Conservation at mainland conferences. In terms of cup character, the coffee reflects the Kona heritage, the higher altitude than the farms down in the flatter areas, and the cultivar (this is 100% Kona Typica, which was brought from Guatemala in 1892).
This cup is a classic Kona in all respects, with a big, sweet flavor that somehow matches the immense blue-green appearance of the coffee seeds. Dry fragrance has honey-wheat sweetness, chocolate biscuits, and a nice hint of all-spice. Hot water brings out lots of caramel, vanilla, light brown sugar and butter in the wet aromatics along with an enticing note of cream soda. The body is light but has a nice silky quality. And it has the brightness that is lacking in so many low-grown Hawaiian coffees, and a floral accent to the cup. A refined, elegant sweetness prevails, with white grape, cane sugar, and honey that lasts through to the finish. I found this real "sweet spot" at City+, which is what this review is based off of, but we've pulled great espresso shots at Full City/Full City+. Mild island coffees like this, moderate in acidity and so well-balanced, are a great choice for un-blended espresso experiments.
View Cupping Scores
Archived Reviews
To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Hawaii Coffee Archives.
2005-2006 | 2004 -2003 | 2001-2002 | Pre-2000 Tom's Sample Cupping Log | Moisture Content Readings This page is authored
by Thompson Owen and Sweet Maria's Coffee, Inc. and is not to be
copied or reproduced without permission
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