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Islands: Hawaii


Map of the Hawaiian Islands

Skip and Rita Cowel, with Maria
Current Crop Comments:
We are getting to the end of our Kona lots for 2009. In general we will have less Kona to offer this year for a couple of reasons: Konas don't last year round (though storing in GrainPro bags will help preserve flavors), and frankly we are sensitive that customers are not exactly interested in buying the most expensive coffees right now, not with the economy being what it is. Still, we want to support our Kona farmers who we have come to know and respect. Right now we have more great coffee From Skip and Rita Cowell at Kowali Farm in Honaunau.

Ah, Hawaii... what a nice place. They grow nuts, fruit, and coffee. The coffee is expensive. It is mild (sometimes too mild) or it can be wonderful! It can be terrible and flat. The best coffees cost a lot ...the worst cost way too much. So the goal with Hawaiians is to quit thinking that all Hawaiian coffee is good, and to realize that only a handful of coffees deserve the high price in terms of cup quality (you can easily argue that all deserve a high price in terms of the care and labor expended in producing them). And frankly, you must pay quite a bit for the truly great small-farm Kona.

In terms of the other islands, and quality coffee production, there is little positive to say at this writing. We had occasionally offered coffees from Maui, Molokai, and Kauai. But these are not grown like true small-farm Estate grade Kona coffees, nor do they taste like them. Kona isn't grown at impressive altitudes compared to other coffee origins, but on Maui and Kauai, coffee is grown at exceptionally low elevations. Also, most Kona is a special cultivar, Kona Typica, a traditional varietal that cannot be grown at low elevations. Recently, we found out that Ka'u coffees have come a long way, and the lots from Will and Grace Tabios' farm are excellent. So Ka'u is a region with soild quality potential.

In a historical sense, coffees like Kona are the pinnacle of a particular definition of what "good coffee" is ... clean, pleasant, mild, good aftertaste. This is a notion of "good coffee" handed down from a time when low-grade coffee was called Brazil Rio and it had a seriously foul, dirty taste (so distinctly awful it is still called Rioy in defective coffee terminology). The best coffees were considered the polar opposite; island coffees -- mild, delicate and clean. Certain Specialty Coffees we now appreciate as intense and desirable cups, Yemeni coffees, Ethiopian Harar, Dry-processed Sumatras for example, would be considered terrible in this definition. If you love these intense coffees, Kona may seem too light, too simple, too mild. The even scores in the mid-80s indicate balance and solid quality. Consider this when you cup Kona coffees.

More Kona Coffee History and Information | Kona Cupping 2004 | Kona Cupping 2005 | Kona Coffee Festival web site


Good Kona is usually Kona Typica seedstock, brought from Guatemala in the '20s. But for fun, Kowali farm has a few token Yellow Caturra.


Myself in front of massively tall Kona Typica trees at the Mountain Thunder farm


Flowering arabica blossoms
Ripe Kona Typica coffee cherry ready for hand-picking
... the opposite of a small family farm on Kona: the Kauai Estate's mechanical picking system.
Yours truly and my favorite spitoon, judging at the 2004 Kona Cupping Competition.

Our Hawaiian Coffee Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below


 
Hawaii Kona -Kowali Farm JBM Cultivar
Kona Coffee is grown only in the district of Kona on the west side of the Big Island of Hawaii. While coffee is also grown in other districts and on other islands, it does not develop the same flavors nor receive the same attention in the process as true small-farm Kona coffees. Kowali (which means Morning Glory in Hawaiian) is in the Honaunau area of South Kona coast, and has the right kind of altitude to produce exceptional Kona coffee. This coffee is grown by Skip and Rita Cowell on their 12 acre farm, up an old-time coffee road winding along the steep hillsides with dramaric ocean views below. It has been consistently acclaimed one of the top 10 coffees in Kona, and in fact received an honorable mention in the Kona Coffee Competition, and 1st place in the "larger farm" category this year! The Cowell farm is grown on carefully tended land, using no pesticides and 100% hand picked. This is a unique lot because it is from the Jamaica Blue Mountain cultivar, which is an old original Typica type that developed unique characteristics in Jamaica. It has a more rounded bean form, whereas classic Typica is quite elongated with a distinctive shape to the folding crease in the centerline of the bean. The seed was distributed from a pure selection at the University of Hawaii some time ago, to see how it compared to the Guatemala-derived Typica planted widely in Kona. When I last visited the farm, the difference in fruit and tree form was easily discernible with the JBM plants versus the Guatemala Typica. The cup is exceptional! The dry fragrance at City to City+ is wonderfully floral and sweet. The wet aroma has honeysuckle floral scents, malty sweet notes, a powdered ginger accent, and cherry-like fruited hints. The cup has light body, with a crisp brightness and (was with the aromatics) clear floral notes. I preferred the lightest City roasts I did, with hints of hazelnut, and slightly piney accent. It's very sweet coffee, a grain-like sweet bread flavor. The body is light, but suits the cup well. It's an expensive but very satisfying SO espresso, when roasted a bit more, to FC/FC+

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Hawaii Kona -Kowali Farm JBM Cultivar
$17.90Limit 1 pound
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Jamaica Blue Mountain cultivar of Typica, grown at Kowali farm, Kona, Hawaii.
Country: Hawaii, United States
Grade: Fancy/Extra Fancy Mix
Region: Hawaii, Big Island, Kona, Honaunau district
Mark: Kowali Farm
Processing: Wet Process
Crop: June 2009 Arrival
Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 18 Screen
Varietal: Jamaica Blue Mountain cultivar
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild-to-Medium intensity / Floral, mild, sweet
Roast: C+ : I like a lighter roast, ceasing the heat with no sign of 2nd crack on the horizon, right when the texture of the seed surface becomes smooth, even brown. You can also get a nice cup just a few snaps of second (FC+), but I find it takes a longer time in most roasters to achieve this level of roast. Set the roaster at a high number and roast manually.
Compare to: Sweet, floral cup, a classic mild "Island coffee" flavor profile, with great aromatics!
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Hawaii Kona -Kowali Farm Typica
Kona Coffee is grown only in the district of Kona on the west side of the Big Island of Hawaii. While coffee is also grown in other districts and on other islands, it does not develop the same flavors nor receive the same attention in the process as true small-farm Kona coffees. Kowali (which means Morning Glory in Hawaiian) is a smaller, more remote Kona farm with the right kind of altitude to produce exceptional Kona coffee. This coffee is grown by Skip and Rita Cowell on their 12 acre Kona farm, up an old-time coffee road winding along the steep hillsides of Honaunau in Southern Kona. It has been consistently acclaimed one of the top 10 coffees in Kona, and in fact received an honorable mention in the Kona Coffee Competition. "The funny thing about that," Rita told me a long time back, "is that I didn't enter the competition!" Well, this year she did enter it, and won first prize in the category for "larger" farms ... which is all relative. By all measures, Kowali is very small. The Cowell farm is grown on carefully tended land, using no pesticides and 100% hand picked. It has been recognized by the Kona Soil and Water Conservation District for continuing conservation practices. Skip is an expert in this area and lectures on Soil Conservation at mainland conferences. In terms of cup character, the coffee reflects the Kona heritage (this is 100% Kona Typica, which was brought from Guatemala in the '20s) and the altitude. This cup is a classic Kona in all respects, with a big, sweet flavor that somehow matches the immense blue-green appearance of the coffee seeds. Dry fragrance has maple syrup, mild chocolates, and a floral nectar sweetness at lighter roast levels. I get floral qualities from the wet aromatics too, while darker FC roast has milk chocolate. The body is light but has a nice silky quality. And it has the brightness that is lacking in so many low-grown Hawaiian coffees, and a floral accent to the cup. While there is a very attractive cup at an FC roast on this coffee, I found a real "sweet spot" at City+. A refined, elegant sweetness prevails, with jasmine floral flavors, mild tea flavors, light body (but silky), and a brief-yet-refined finish.

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Hawaii Kona -Kowali Farm Typica
$17.40Limit 1 pound
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Rita Cowell next to one of her towering coffee trees.
Country: Hawaii, United States
Grade: Fancy/ Extra Fancy
Region: Hawaii, Big Island, Kona, Honaunau distric
Mark: Kowali Farm, Skip & Rita Cowell
Processing: Wet-Process
Crop: June 2009 Arrival
Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17-18+ screen
Varietal: Typica (Guatemala-derived)
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild intensity / Ideal Kona Typica character at the lighter roasts, very sweet and floral.
Roast: C+ : I like a lighter roast, ceasing the heat with no sign of 2nd crack on the horizon, right before the texture of the seed surface becomes smooth, even brown. You can also get a nice cup just a few snaps of second (FC+), but I find it takes a longer time in most roasters to achieve this level of roast.
Compare to: Classic Kona cup character, accented with floral notes and a refined sweetness. A consistently top-notch Kona.
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Archived Reviews

To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Hawaii Coffee Archives.


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