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Islands: Hawaii


Map of Hawaiian Islands

Skip and Rita Cowel, with Maria
Current Crop Comments:

It's 2008 and we have sold out of our first small farm Kona, Kowali farms Typica. We haev received Ka'u coffee from one particular farm, and it is a really nice lot. Moki's Farm arrived late after some early cupping samples had a bit of mustyness to them, but the actual lot is great, and Purple Mountain is improved this year too. Konas don't last year round, and we are sensitive to the green coffee freshness ... so we chose to buy when it's the "right time" for the coffee, and sell out by July or so. It's best for cup quality.

Ah, Hawaii... what a nice place. They grow nuts, fruit, and coffee. The coffee is expensive. It is mild (sometimes too mild) or it can be wonderful! It can be terrible and flat. The best coffees cost a lot ...the worst cost way too much. So the goal with Hawaiians is to quit thinking that all Hawaiian coffee is good, and to realize that only a handful of coffees deserve the high price in terms of cup quality (you can easily argue that all deserve a high price in terms of the care and labor expended in producing them). And frankly, you must pay quite a bit for the truly great small-farm Kona.

In terms of the other islands, and quality coffee production, there is little positive to say at this writing. We had occasionally offered coffees from Maui, Molokai, and Kauai. But these are not grown like true small-farm Estate grade Kona coffees, nor do they taste like them. Kona isn't grown at impressive altitudes compared to other coffee origins, but on Maui and Kauai, coffee is grown at exceptionally low elevations. Also, most Kona is a special cultivar, Kona Typica, a traditional varietal that cannot be grown at low elevations. Recently, we found out that Ka'u coffees have come a long way, and the lots from Will and Grace Tabios' farm are excellent. So Ka'u is a region with soild quality potential.

In a historical sense, coffees like Kona are the pinnacle of a particular definition of what "good coffee" is ... clean, pleasant, mild, good aftertaste. This is a notion of "good coffee" handed down from a time when low-grade coffee was called Brazil Rio and it had a seriously foul, dirty taste (so distinctly awful it is still called Rioy in defective coffee terminology). The best coffees were considered the polar opposite; island coffees -- mild, delicate and clean. Certain Specialty Coffees we now appreciate as intense and desirable cups, Yemeni coffees, Ethiopian Harar, Dry-processed Sumatras for example, would be considered terrible in this definition. If you love these intense coffees, Kona may seem too light, too simple, too mild. The even scores in the mid-80s indicate balance and solid quality. Consider this when you cup Kona coffees.

More Kona Coffee History and Information | Kona Cupping 2004 | Kona Cupping 2005 | Kona Coffee Festival web site


Good Kona is usually Kona Typica seedstock, brought from Guatemala in the '20s. But for fun, Kowali farm has a few token Yellow Caturra.


Myself in front of massively tall Kona Typica trees at the Mountain Thunder farm


Flowering arabica blossoms
Ripe Kona Typica coffee cherry ready for hand-picking
... the opposite of a small family farm on Kona: the Kauai Estate's mechanical picking system.
Yours truly and my favorite spitoon, judging at the 2004 Kona Cupping Competition.

Our Hawaiian Coffee Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below


Hawaii Ka'u - Will & Grace Farm
Country: US Grade: Extra Fancy Region: Hawaii, Big Island, Ka'u District Mark: Will and Grace Farm
Processing: Wet-Process Crop: August 2008 Arrival Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 18+ screen Varietal: Typica (Guatemala-derived)
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.4 Notes: Ka'u is a highland region on the southern coast of the big island, Hawaii. If you drive through the Kona regions on the west coast, eventually you will wrap around on a gentle south-southwest heading and Ka'u will be on the plateau above you. It's about 30-40 miles from Kailua Kona. This lot is from a 7-acre farm of Will and Grace Tabios, who have been gaining attention submitting their coffees to the Specialty Coffee Association of America's Roasters Guild Cupping Pavilion Competition. They won 6th place in 2007 among all origins ... not bad for a coffee grown at 1500 feet competing against those from 1500 meters or more! I panned Ka'u coffees years ago, when I received initial samples. They seemed mundane, a facimile of medicore Kona coffees. And the bias of the Kona farmers against any non-Kona coffees did not inspire further investigation with Ka'u producers. In fact, a lot of coffee is grown on other islands and other zones than Kona, and it rarely adds up to anything more than a flat, low-grown, insipid cup. So the samples from this particular Ka'u farm, Will and Grace (I know, it's like "Seinfeld Estate" or something), took me by surprise. They were well-prepped and sweet, with a rounded mouthfeel. It reminded me of the best of small farm Konas. Certainly, Ka'u has progressed. I will focus on the excellent wet-processed lot, but we have trace amounts of pulp natural and natural dry-process to offer on a very, very limited basis. The dry fragrance has a malt syrup and caramel sweet aspect, and some minor winey fruit hint to the cup. The wet aroma adds to this a nice, lush floral scent at C+ roast levels. It's a classic Kona-type coffee in many respects, with that intrepidly balanced flavor profile, the triangle of brightness-body-flavor in moderate and equal amounts. There are drying nut flavors (macademia, brazil nut), toasted bread, silky light mouthfeel, and a soft floral-tinted sweetness. As it cools, the roast notes get more chocolate-like and drying, with a somewhat minty sharpness At a slightly darker roast (FC - FC+) the coffee is pungent, peppery, with tangy dark roast bittersweetness. The body is a bit thinner as the roast progresses, but this can be offset by resting the coffee 24+ hours after roasting.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.8
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.5
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.7
Body - Mouthfeel (1-5) 3.2
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.5
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 1 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild intensity / Balanced, good aroma, mild  
add 50 50 Roast: City+ has a classic, mild "Island Coffee" character, whereas FC has a nice tangy bittersweet cup. A melange blend of the lighter and darker roasts draws out depth from the coffee.
Score (Max. 100) 87.1 Compare to: Kona, of course. At FC+ this coffe produces a great SO espresso

Hawaii Ka'u
Wet-Process -Will & Grace Farm
$16.50add to cart MicroLot -Limit 1 Lb      

Hawaii Ka'u Dry-Process NanoLot (Will & Grace Farm)
Notes: Ka'u Full Natural is decidedly fruity, in the scent of the green coffee, in the fragrance and wet aromatics. It's a completely different cup than the other lots. At City+ is has strong, sweet, sticky fruit flavors, and more body than the other lots. This is the most intense and distinct coffee you will get out of Hawaii, but if fruit is not your thing, you might want to stick to the classic flavors of the wet-process lot. This is the smallest lot of the three, a microscopic lot!
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Bold intensity / Intense Fruits

Score (Max. 100) : 88.7

Hawaii Ka'u
Dry-Process NanoLot
$23.20add to cart NanoLot -Limit 1 Lb
Roast: City+ To FC+. I enjoyed the intense fruits of C+ roast. but also the fruit and chocolate of FC+
Compare to: Heavily fruited coffees, such as some of the wacky Central America naturals we are getting this year (Don Pepe Panama, Mexico Nayarit Dry-Process, El Salvador Natural -coming soon).

Hawaii Ka'u Pulp Natural NanoLot (Will & Grace Farm)
Notes: The Ka'u Pulp Natural Nano-Lot from Will and Grace farm is the sweetest of the three. The caveat is that the sweetness turns to pungent roast flavor failry early, at Full City roast, well before 2nd crack. These sharper roast notes are nice, but I greatly prefer the lighter roast here. Keep it at City to City+ and you have the winning lot!
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild intensity / Sweet, sweet, sweet
 Score (Max. 100) : 89.6

Hawaii Ka'u
Pulp Natural NanoLot
$23.20add to cart NanoLot -Limit 1 Lb
Roast: City to City+ . I found that FC+ turns pungent quickly, so we recommend keeping it light.
Compare to: Kona, of course. This was the lot that was reviewed at 92+ points at coffeereview. If you want to get this great coffee already roasted, check out ParadiseRoasters.com.

We are all out of Kona for the year. New crop Konas start to arrive (theoretically) in November - Maria 7/22/08


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