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Indonesia: Sumatra


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For those who think Sumatran coffee is all the same - we have four different Sumatrans that, while perhaps of a type, offer some real variety. Our Sidikalang coffee, from the Lake Toba region, is bold, with some sweetness, some fruit. This coffee is very close to the classic Mandheling profile. The Onan Ganjang Cultivar from the Lintong area farmed by the Batak people, a bold, earthy, slightly earthy coffee. The Lintong Dolok Sangul is a traditional Giling Bash (wet-hulled) preparation and as such is bold and rustic with some sweet fruit and spice. Finally the FTO Arin Arinagata is another wet-hulled coffee from further north, the Aceh area. This is a sweeter coffee, with a good amount of spice too.


Very mature old coffee trees in Takengon area of Aceh, where our "Classic Mandheling" comes from.

Arabica coffee production in Sumatra began in the 18th century under Dutch colonial domination, introduced first to the northern region of Aceh around Lake Tawar. Coffee is still widely produced in these northern regions of Aceh (Takengon, Bener Mariah) as well as in the Lake Toba region (Lintong Nihuta, Dairi-Sidikalang, Siborongborong, Dolok Sanggul, and Seribu Dolok) to the southwest of Medan. In the past, Sumatra coffees have not been sold by region, because presumably the regional differences are not that distinct. Rather, the quality of the picking, preparation and processing of the coffee determines much of the cup character in this coffee. In fact, Sumatras are sold as Mandheling (Mandailing) which is simply the Indonesian ethnic group that was once involved in coffee production (see note below). The coffee is scored by defects in the cup, not physical defects of the green coffee. So a fairly ugly-looking green coffee can technically be called Grade 1 Mandheling.

Indonesians are available as a unique semi-washed process and (rarely) fully-washed coffees. Semi-washed coffees are best described as "wet-hulled", localy called Giling Basah, and will have more body and often more of the "character" that makes Indonesians so appealing and slightly funky. In this process, the parchment coffee (the green seed with the parchment shell still attached) is very marginally dried, then stripped of the outer layer, revealing a white-colored, swollen green bean. Then the drying is completed on the patio (or in some cases, on the dirt), and the seed quickly turns to a dark green color.

There is a tendency to over-roast Indonesians. The reason is that they don't show as much roast color, and have a mottled appearance up until 2nd crack and even a bit into it. Don't let this make you think you have to roast them dark (although they can be nice this way too). Great Indonesians will be wonderful roasted just to the verge of 2nd crack but NOT into it at all. So ignore the wierd beans you see green, and ignore the mottled appearance of lighter roasts, and focus on the what you get in the CUP.

With prices high, you expect quality would be up to, but in general this is not the case: what's the incentive to pick and prepare the coffee better when the market guarantees a premium anyway? It's why we buy very selectively from Sumatra and cup our lots hard. What I have seen is blends of old crop and new crop early in the Grade 1 window (Nov-Jan in particular), which is a deceptive practice. Nonetheless, roasters need Sumatra and I am sure someone buys it ... someone who doesn't cup their lots that is! Problems aside, we have been able to find great Sumatras in both the rustic and the fancy triple-pick categories because we have established good relations directly with the sources. But because of the way Sumatra coffee is collected and resold in local markets, we can't buy at the farm gate in this origin, hence no Farm Gate status for Sumatra coffees.

Mandheling is an older Dutch spelling of Mandailing, which is an ethnic group, not a region. Here is an interesting anecdote on the use of Mandheling in the coffee trade. The grading of Sumatra coffees can be confusing. Many of our lots are standard, old-style Grade One grades that result in the classic, rustic, earthy flavor profile. But we also offer many super-grade lots throughout the year, so-called Triple-Pick coffees. These can be as complex, and intense, or sometimes more refined and broader in the overall range of flavors. For more about the different styles and classes of Sumatra, here are some additional comments. I also included a google map marking Takengon and Lake Toba here. For more pictures of Sumatra than you would ever care to see, visit our travelogs for the Lake Toba- Lintong area, and the Lake Tawar-Aceh area.


Wet-hulled (Giling Basah) process technique gives Sumatras that unique cup character. Left, the whitish, swollen bean right out of the wet-huller, right, the dark green dried coffee on the patio

Sumatra has a range of cultivars. The original Typica type was brought from Yemen or Ethiopia via India. This is sometimes called Jember Typica. There are 2 main typica types: Bergandal and Sidikalang. Hibrido de Timor, a cross between arabica and robusta is sometimes found with the name "TimTim" ... we offered TimTim Blangili a while back. Caturra and Catimor are present, sometimes with local names. Ethiopia strains were reintroduced with the names Rambung and Abyssinia, which were brought to Java in 1928, and later to Aceh, Sumatra. Another group of Ethiopian varieties found in Sumatra are called “USDA". Knowing the specific cultivar is nearly impossible, and they are often a mix of many. In Sulawesi for example, Djember means S-795 from India, not a pure Typica. Our Classic Mandheling is a pure selection of local Ateng with a large bean size. Our Lintongs are a mix of Onan Ganjang, Djembers and Ateng types. All of this is really second fiddle to the process flavors, the Indonesia wet-hull method called Giling Basah. Process flavors trump all in the Sumatra cup -Tom


Tom with Eko and Eduardo in Lintong Nihota, talking coffee agronomy, no doubt.

 


Our Sumatran Offerings: (You will need to read the reference page to interpret terms and numbers used below). Check out the Sweet Maria's Coffee Home Roasting Forum for more conversation about home roasting this and other coffees.


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Sumatra Lintong Blue Batak
Lintong coffees are from Sumatra, the island that is politically and geographically part of Indonesia. Lintong Nihota is the town that has become synonymous with the entire southern part of Lake Toba area. Lake Toba defines the landscape of the area, the largest volcanic crater lake in the world, and the result of the largest volcanic event on earth in the last 25 million years! It is huge, and the coffees from the north and eastern shores are quite different from the Lintong coffees. Lintong coffees are farmed by the Batak peoples that are the indigenous tribe that works the coffee in this area. We offer the top grade, specially- prepared Lintong coffees as Blue Batak in honor of the Toba Batak people. Blue Batak is a near-zero defect prepartion, without the usual split beans, broken pieces and crud found in standard Sumatras. It is carefully density sorted and triple-hand-sorted. A roast note: It might go against common sense, but I find Sumatras like this more complex in the lighter roasts than in the usual darker roasts they receive. The main reason is that many commercial roasters use color and surface texture as indicators of roast level. They roast coffee until the bean looks attractive. With a Sumatra like this, you will mostly likely hit 2nd crack at the point where the surface texture and variegated bean color evens out, and (I think) you may have gone too far at that point. Ignore appearance, try a lighter roast. The aromatics are pungent and the cup is complex at City+ roast, with herbal tones, and caramel/butterscotch sweetness paired with malty grain notes. There are hints of tobacco and spice (clove, pepper). The sweetness reminds me of chicory root and molasses. There is latent fruit hiding behind chocolate in the finish. And there is tons of thick, chocolate roast flavor as well. The body is huge, oily, waxy. Of course, I roasted this to FC, FC+ and Vienna and it's a great cup across the board, turning more to bass-note flavors and a "noir" cup profile at FC+. But it was my lightest roast, C+, that was the most complex. Give it a try.



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Sumatra Lintong Blue Batak
$5.80$11.02$25.23$48.14$89.32
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Tom, Eko and Eduardo discuss the Blue Batak in Lintong area, alte 2008
Country: Sumatra
Grade: One
Region: Lintong Nihota, Lake Toba Area, N. Sumatra
Mark: Blue Batak (Special Prep) Lintong
Processing: Giling Basah (wet-hulled)
Crop: Late July 2009 Arrival
Appearance: .4 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen
Varietal: Djember, Ateng, TimTim
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Bold intensity / Complex, dense, and rustic flavors
Roast: City+ to FC+ to Vienna. See my notes about the intensity.
Compare to: Complex, sweet, rustic and intense.
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Sumatra Lintong Dolok Sanggul
Dolok Sanggul is a city within the coffee growing area we refer to as Lintong. Lintong Nihota is the town that has become synonymous with the entire southern part of Lake Toba area most of the coffee from the southern shores are sold as such. Lake Toba defines the landscape of the area, the largest volcanic crater lake in the world, and the result of the largest volcanic event on earth in the last 25 million years! It is huge, and the coffees from the north and eastern shores are quite different from the Lintong coffees. Dolok Sanggul is a local marketplace for coffees from the area; once a week the farmers gather to sell their parchment coffee to trusted vendors, who "collect" it on behalf of specific mills, or as freelancers. The mill we work with has certain farmers from higher altiitude areas, and who produce a very clean, high-quality parchment coffee. That's part of the reason this has great cup character ... the other is special milling and sorting practices. We offer the top grade, specially- prepared Lintong coffees as Blue Batak in honor of the Toba Batak people. Blue Batak is a near-zero defect preparation, without the usual split beans, broken pieces and crud found in standard Sumatras. It is carefully density sorted and triple-hand-sorted. The dry fragrance has chocolate and caramel biscuit tones, but with a slight earthy and graham cracker graininess. Surprising fruits come forward in the wet aroma, even a momentary whiff of citrus, pineapple, dried plum, fig. It's got great rustic sweetness, aromatic tree bark, cinnamon stick, black tea, and mulling spice in the finish. The body is a bit lighter than the Onan Ganjang micro-lot we have as a sister lot, even though they come from areas that are very close to each other. It also has less of the herbal notes found in other Lintong coffees, which I think makes it a better choice for use in espresso. In fact, the shots I have made from Dolok Sanggul have been really fantastic, like no other Sumatra I can think of ... but only when rested 5 days or more after roasting. It needs rest!

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Sumatra Lintong Dolok Sanggul
$5.75$10.93$25.01$47.73$88.55
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Coffee flower near Dolok Sanggul, from my last trip there.
Country: Sumatra
Grade: One
Region: Dolok Sanggul, Lintong Area, N. Sumatra
Mark: Blue Batak (Special Prep)
Processing: Giling Basah (wet-hulled)
Crop: July 2009 Arrival
Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen
Varietal: Ateng, Djember, TimTim
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium-Bold intensity / Rustic sweentess, fruit and spice
Roast: City+ to FC+ to Vienna. I preferred Full City to Full City+ in my tests.
Compare to: Slightly brighter and lighter bodied than other Lintongs, with long rustic sweetness in the finish.
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Sumatra Takengon Classic
Formerly offered as Classic Mandheling, the name seems less suited to any coffee from Sumatra these days. Why? Mandheling has been been loosely applied to any coffee from North Sumatra or Aceh district, but the actual Mandheling district has little coffee remaining but some low-land robusta. Mandheling was a historical name. We can respect that, but we like to keep the romance in check, and prefer some real-world specifics. Indeed, this is a special coffee from a small area near Takengon, the city on the shores of Lake Tawar in the Gayo area of Aceh. And it has "classic" Sumatra character, that reverberant, deep-toned, mildly earthy, low acid heavy body cup. This sub region has unique plant material too; our classic comes from trees that predominately have large cherries, resulting in 18-19 screen green coffee. This coffee is grown by smallholder farmers and when I visited there it was clear that the trees were unique in form and the very large cherries. Whether this is a TimTim, Ateng or Djember cultivar is unknown at this point, but I walked the farms with Andy Irham and his father, local Takengon coffee millers who source this lot for us, and they believe this is a local mutation of old seedstock from the early days of coffee in the Gayo area. What I have found consistently is a great flavor profile; aggressive, yet with a foresty sweetness too, hints of earth, but not dirty or musty. The fragrance from the dry grounds has semi-sweet chocolate roast tones (FC+) with woody tree bark hints and darkly caramelized sugar sweetness. Adding water, the tenor-to-bass range of the cup is clear, reiterating what we find in the dry fragrance, with the addition of a deep sandalwood aromatic, brown bread, bran muffin, and molasses. Low acidity means the cup has less dimension and perceived complexity ... but that's what a Sumatra is all about as well; heavy body, chocolate, a coffee profile painted in earth-shades. While the cup showcases pleasing bitterness over sweetness, there is clear presence of both; dark brown sugar, baker's chocolate, dark fig. There is a touch of black pepper in the finish, as well as earthy tones, and a bit of truffles. There are also muted ripe fruits; plum-prune, fig. Of course, a coffee with this flavor profile doesn't chart well on a cupping form, hence the strong use of the Cupper's Correction.



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Sumatra Takengon Classic
$5.10$9.69$22.18$42.33$78.54
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One of the small-holder plots where our Takengon Classic is grown, near Takengon.
Country: Sumatra
Grade: 1
Region: Takengon Gayo area, Aceh
Mark: Classic
Processing: Semi-washed (but called "dry")
Crop: November 2009 Arrival
Appearance: .6 d/300gr, 18-19
Varietal: Ateng, Djember, TimTim
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium to Bold / Heavy Body, foresty notes, low acidity
Roast: Full City+. Sumatra can be roasted on either side of 2nd crack. It works great for darker roasts and blends too. Sumatra appears lighter to the eye than the actual degree of roast, when compared to other coffees visually. People tend to prefer more roast on this coffee, but I enjoy it at a City+ stage (properly rested for 24 hours) where the surface is dry looking and a bit variegated (unsmooth and patchy color).
Compare to: "Mandheling" coffees of the best caliber, but truly this special large bean coffee from an old tree form is a notch above. At darker roasts this coffee is preferred for espresso uses over the Lintong lots we offer.
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Archived Reviews

To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Sumatra Coffee Archives.


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