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Central America: Panama


Map of Panama
 

Finca Carmen, checking out the organic fertilizing mulch

Panama coffee was historically under-rated and overlooked. That perception has been corrected in recent years with the outstanding Best of Panama competition held each year, attracting global competition for the best lots, and spectacular prices. The Gesha cultivar produced in some of the small coffee estates has also garnered heaps of attention for it's unique floral cup character.

Panama coffees are brightly toned with vivid floral aromatics and clean fruited notes. They outcup many higher priced coffees and the cup character is obvious, quality is consistent. Cheaper Panamas sold as BEP are a staple of higher-end commercial roasters and lower-end specialty roasters. There are many lower-grown Panamas that are ubiquitous in the U.S. market and of little interest to us here. It's just the Boquete coffees from the Chirqui district, ones from small family-owned farms that produce the truly distinct, unique coffees. They employ N'gbe Indians for the picking season, who will come to the coffee farms to work under some of the best wage standards and work laws in Central America.

For more information on Panama coffees, see our review of the 2002 Panama Cupping Competition. And also see my slide show of the 2003 cupping We have a page about the #1 2004 coffee, Jaramillo Especial, and a page about the 2004 Cupping. And ... boy this is getting to be quite a list ... the January 2006 crop visit to check our small lot coffee, and visit the Gesha trees at Hacienda La Esmeralda. Also see my April 2006 Best of Panama competition trip including pictures of the 1800+ meter Carmen Estate coffee.

Current Crop Comments:
If you have been around Sweet Maria's for a few years, you know we are into our Panamas. Boquete and Volcan regions are the ultimate small Estate coffee regions. Early 2009 has seen a lot of damage to many farms in Panama - high winds and heavy rains damaged both trees and infrastructure. I visited Carmen, Hartman and Esmeralda estates. So there will be coffee, but less than previous years. I was a judge in the Best of Panama cupping again this year in early May 2009, and the Hacienda Esmeralda was the top coffee! We did buy some coffee from Esmeralda in their auction, and found those coffees better than their auction submission. Esmeralda will arrive likely mid-July at the soonest. We will see Carmen estate again this year - again, we ought to have it posted about mid-July or so.
 

Coffee in bloom, Boquete

Ripe coffee cherry, Volcan

Yours truly at the cupping competition, 2002, so many moons ago.

Our Panamanian Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below.
 
Panama Organic La Berlina Estate Typica
La Berlina is the epitome of classic Central American cup character; clean, sweet, caramel-malt roast taste, creamy body, a refined finish. I have been to this farm several times, and seeing the incredibly old 18 foot tall Typica trees makes it no wonder why the coffee bears this character. It is less acidic than our 1900 meter selection from Carmen Estate, but it makes up for it with this solid balance. Berlina is 100% old Typica cultivar, towering ancient trees, which expresses itself in the cup. And this Organic lot was far better than the samples I cupped of conventional Berlina, from newer plantings on a separate plot on the farm. The cup is balanced, with dry fragrance of cocoa backed by fruited tones and malt sugar (C+ roast), while at FC+ it turns to a rich, bittersweet chocolate. Wet aromatics have a nice sweet cane sugar scent, a soft cherry blossom floral aspect, slightly fruited. It becomes flatly pungent if you roast much into 2nd crack, so try to avoid that. On the break, there is some savory (umami) aroma. The cup has some interesting balance between sweet fruit (berry), body and chocolate. This is the pure varietal character: Typica coffees have classic balance between brightness and body, and an accessible flavor profile (whereas Bourbon types are more dense, compact, tightly knit flavor profiles). There's a caramel-malt sweetness at City+ roast, and creamy mouthfeel. Toffee-praline nut flavors come out as the cup cools. At this stage of roast, City+, the coffee has a fairly wrinkled surface appearance ... but this isn't a beauty contest. That wrinkled appearance can be the optimal degree of roast for brighter cup character. Darker roasts have a very intense chocolate, and some fruited, winey notes are still detectable, but for my money this is yet another City+ roast recommendation. City + (once again) is where you will experience the most of the aspects of this cup which make it so special. I thought my FC roasts of this coffee were too "roasty" and didn’t have the sparkle of the C to C+ cup. Still, the darker chocolate character of FC+ was attractive.

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Panama Organic La Berlina Estate Typica
$6.05$11.50$26.32$50.22$93.17
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A view of La Berlina (white and red buildings) farm from across the way.
Country: Panama
Grade: SHB
Region: Boquete
Mark: La Berlina Estate, Organic Cert.
Processing: Wet-Processed
Crop: June 2009 Arrival
Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen
Varietal: 100% Old Growth Typica
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium-Bold intensity / Rich aromatically, with caramel-malt sweetness in the cup, creamy body.
Roast: City+ (once again) is where you will experience the most of the aspects of this cup which make it so special. I thought my FC roasts of this coffee were too "roasty" and didn’t have the sparkle of the C to C+ cup. Still, the darker chocolate character of FC+ was attractive.
Compare to: Classic bright Central from a pure old growth cultivar -Typica
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Archived Reviews

To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Panama Coffee Archives.

Central America: Costa Rica | Guatemala | Honduras | Mexico | Nicaragua | Panama | El Salvador
South America: Bolivia | Brazil | Colombia | Ecuador | Peru
Africa/Arabia: Burundi | Congo | Ethiopia | Kenya | Rwanda | Tanzania | Uganda | Zambia | Zimbabwe | Yemen
Indonesia/Asia: Bali | Flores | India | Java | Papua New Guinea | Sumatra | Sulawesi | Timor
Islands/Blends/Others: Australia | Hawaii | Puerto Rico | Jamaica | Dominican | Chicory | Sweet Maria's Blends
Decafs: Water Process, Natural Decafs, MC Decafs, C0-2 Decafs Robustas: India Archives: 2008-2009 | 2007
2005-2006 | 2004 -2003 | 2001-2002 | Pre-2000
Tom's Sample Cupping Log | Moisture Content Readings

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