The Coffees of Mexico

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• Roast Pictorial Guide
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Central America: Mexico

Map of Mexico

Shade cover for Oaxacan coffee

Hurricane Damage from Mitch in Chiapas, 2 years later!

Mexican coffee originates from South-central to Southern regions of the country. For that reason, coffees from Coatepec and Veracruz are much different from Oaxacan Plumas, which are in turn much different from the Southernmost region of Chiapas. The later is a growing region bordering the Guatemalan growing area of Huehuetenango, and you will find similarities between those coffees. In general you can expect a light-bodied coffee, mild but with delicate flavors ...But there are exceptions of course. Mexican is one of the largest producers of certified organic coffees, and because of the US close proximity, we receive the bulk of fine Mexican coffees in this market. Mexican coffees are worth exploring for the variety of cup characteristics they present, and their great price!

Mexicans are moderately priced, lighter bodied, and wide-ranging in their cup character. For this reason, you need to explore coffee selections from each of the regions to get a good sense of the possibilities of Mexican coffee. Unfortunately, I rarely approve of the cup quality of coffees from Coatepec and Atoyac, and have never carried a Veracruz. Most of the impressive coffees I find are from Oaxaca and Chiapas.

It may seen to fly in the face of espresso-blending laws, but try an espresso made with 100% Oaxaca Pluma coffee, such as the Tres Flechas, Loxicha, Tres Oros ...it is excellent roasted just a bit into 2nd crack.

I was in Chiapas recently for a brief trip, looking into next year's project to identify, separate and evaluate the coffees of small producer-groups. Here's some comments and images from this short trip.

Current Crop Comments:

We will start seeing samples from the 2009 Mexican crop in the next few months, for mid- to late-summer arrival. In general, it has become harder, not easier, for me to find great Mexican coffees from Oaxaca and Chiapas. While other origins have improved their visibility, and their skills to produce specialty coffee, Mexico remains quiet on the subject, having no promotional competition or related auction. Mexico has relied more on the Organic and Fair Trade model to attain better prices, rather than looking for a reward in quality. That can work fine, and I support both efforts (as you see on our offer list). But they leave behind those dependent on private farms ... and that part of the market has (I believe) become more volume-oriented.

coffee token - guatimoc mexico 1911
Coffee token with coffee tree design - Guatimoc, Mexico 1911

Small producer in Chiapas

Cooperative farmers, Oaxaca

Our Mexican Coffee Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below.

Mexico Organic Chiapas Proish Coop

Chiapas is the southernmost state in Mexico, at the Guatemalan border. The coffees are distinct from the Oaxaca Plumas and Coatepec coffees: they are a little brighter, sweeter, and bear some resemblance to the Huehuetenango coffees of Guatemala. Oaxaca is my other favorite Mexican origin, but the really good Chiapas coffees like this one have been consistently excellent, are a brighter and livelier cup. Many of the coffees from Chiapas are from small farms, cooperatively wet-milled and sold. We have offered the UDEPOM coop Chiapas for years. (UDEPOM, PROISH ... not the greatest names in the world. It's not the oddest coop name I have heard, or longest (Fedecocagua is up there for that award). But besides an early lot we had this season, the quality was up and down. So we looked around and this Proish organic-certified Chiapas landed on the cupping table, and it was classic Chiapas cup character. In fact, this is the first time we have selected a Proish Coop coffee in blind cupping, mainly because it is the first time it has broken the 84 point ceiling on the cupping table. This cup has a very attractive, clean fruited character from start to finish. In the dry fragrance, there is a mild cherry-vanilla and coffee flower scent, along with hazelnut roast tones (C+ roast). Adding the hot water to brew, wet aromatics reveal sweet caramel tones and cane sugar with a touch of peach. In the cup the fruit has ample stone fruit characteristics (peach and apricot), malic sweetness, nutty roast tones (C+ roast) and medium body. It's a mild cup overall, lightly fruited, very refined overall.

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