Green Coffee Offerings : Central America : Guatemala |
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View Our Current Guatemalan Coffees |
Upcoming Crop CommentsLots of good Guats to choose from. We went deep for Guatemala coffee this year, because of our strong ties to great farms, and the amazingly consistent quality. I mean, consistently amazing. Well, both really. |
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About Guatemalan Coffee
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Guatemalan coffee is revered as one of the most flavorful and nuanced cups in the world. Due to our proximity to Guatemala, some of the finest coffees from this origin come to the United States. Guatemalan growing regions vary in their potential cup quality: many have sufficient altitude, soil and climate conditions. Antiguas are well-known and highly rated. Huehuetenango from the north highland can be exceptional and have distinct fruit flavors. Coban, Fraijanes and Quiche can be nice, but they need to be cupped carefully: they can have a nice cup but sometimes less complexity and depth. Atitlan has produced some very fine coffees in the past few years. But remember, you can't count on any origin to necessarily produce a great coffee: the quality cup is still hard to find among even the most celebrated and recognized regions ...in this case Antigua. Politics in Guatemala have often interfered with the quality of Guatemalan coffee, and more importantly the shared success of the coffee farmer great and small. Unfortunately, if you read the history books, we have played a role in the state-sponsored violence. In general, remember this: specialty coffee purchases from co-ops, smaller farms or single-owner estates (that is, all the coffee we offer). To support the "coffee elite" you buy lower-grade, low-grown cheap coffee produced and sold in huge volumes through the giant exporters. In general, buying Specialty coffee sold from small lots and established farms and co-ops means you are supporting farms and workers in a fairly direct way. Guatemala imposes a minimum wage for coffee-pickers, and it is paid on established farms and co-ops, but with the low-grown no-name coffees, who knows? Many of Sweet Maria's coffees from Guatemala are bought with direct contact from the farm, and prices negotiated with the farmer per our Farm Gate Coffee program. It's a bit dated, but here is a travelogue I did for a trip to northern Guatemala. More recently, my notes and pictures from the 2006 Guatemala Cup of Excellence competition are uploaded and 2 trips from early 2008, linked from our Coffee Library page.- Tom
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Our Unroasted Guatemalan Coffee Offerings
Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below. Check out the Sweet Maria's Coffee Home Roasting Forum for more conversation about home roasting this and other coffees.
Finca La Soledad has been a Pérez family coffee farm since 1895, named in honor of a Perez grandmother, Soledad. Beyond simply inheriting a farm in a great micro-climate and altitude for coffee, the Perez family has shown great dedication to care for the trees, rebuilding the old mill to the highest ecological standards. I have visited this farm the past 4 seasons and this is the third year to offer the coffee at Sweet Maria's. And I am so happy with the lot we are offering here. It's not some crazy "fruit bomb" coffee; it's a classic Central that I find myself, on a weekend morning, wanting to select for my own brew. Henio and his son Raul work intensively on the farm, and Raul has been roasting and cupping samples regularly to master the quality control of their coffee. It might be surprising, but there very very few coffee farmers that are true cuppers of their own production. The crop was smaller this year at Soledad but I think the quality is up. Bright yet balanced, sweet yet with a pleasant bittersweet tang as well, dense in it's mouthfeel, this is a great example of the Guatemala flavor profile.
The dry fragrance has a vibrant fruit/nut flavor, a chocolate-dipped raisin and hazelnut scent. At darker levels, chocolate bittersweet notes dominate. The aroma from the wet grounds intensifies in honey sweetness, adding scent in the lighter roasts and some "brown bread on the hearth" smells at Full City roast. There is also a slight floral hibiscus scent. The aromatics are classic, clean, balanced Central America all the way, and the cup flavor follow suit. Lighter roasts have almond and apricot high notes, a clean and lively acidic snap, with vanilla malt sweetness. At City+ roast a more rounded flavor profile emerges, with a dense mouthfeel, a more developed sweetness, but still apricot-nut flavors at the foreground. The finish has a mouth-refreshing quality, with lingering brightness and a fading brown sugar taste. Now something else quite exciting about this Finca La Soldedad lot, the SO espresso. It is fantastic! Roasted just to the verge of 2nd crack, perhaps a few snaps into it, the espresso is bright, creamy, dense, sweet, chocolaty, silky. I enjoyed some shots at lighter roasts that were very citric and intense, but perhaps a little bright for some palates.
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Just outside the town of Antigua is the small village of San Felipe de Jesus. And among the houses on the twisting and narrow side streets is an old coffee farm called La Folie. It is owned by Penny Matheu, having been divided off from the greater Matheu family lands and the neighboring Finca Filadelfia. The farm operates as a small estate of 91 acres, but processes the coffee at the Zelaya family mill a few miles away. La Folie did exceptionally well in the 2010 Cup of Excellence competition, reaching 5th place, an amazing result for a first-time entrant. I visited the farm after the event, and despite the fact it was bombarded with rain and mud in a violent storm the day previous. It's a beautiful old-style farm at 5100-5200 feet, planted chiefly in Bourbon, with Caturra and some Typica as well. The manager, Don Julio Valencia, lives on the farm, and the plantings are well-organized in blocks and rows, a classic Antigua style farm on flat, fertile grounds.
The dry fragrance has classic Antigua balance and sweetness, with caramel and melted butter along with a slight chocolate bittersweet scent. The wet aroma has a cocoa powder and milk chocolate biscuit quality, with sweetness fading into the background. As with another Antigua coffee this year, the Carmona Pulcal, that wet aroma is a little deceiving. The cup has less chocolate bittersweet aggressive notes than the aroma suggests. For an Antigua, it has a bright and refined acidity, juicy in the body, and very sweet. Apple fruit notes with a touch of blackberry syrup well describes the sweet flavors, while caramelized sugars is contributed from the roast taste (City + roast level). Toasted nut roast tone emerges as it cools. It's a mild, yet very sweet and attractive coffee. It makes perfect sense how it placed so well in the competition, and why it is such an attractive cup. We pulled SO Espresso shots of it and they were delicate in the clear, crisp acidity, with subtle floral and citric notes. Beautiful stuff.
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Finca Rosma is a small farm near Michicoy town in San Pedro Necta area of Huehuetenango. It's not far from other farms we have bought from, like Finca Huixoc and La Providencia Dos. Finca Rosma is owned by the Rosales family, managed by the son Fredy Rosales. The name is in honor of his grandmother, Rosemarie. It's located on a high ridge where you drive in to the farm at nearly 1900 meters, then descend down to the mill at around 1600 meters. When Alejandro Rosales bought the farm in 1963, the only way to get there was by foot, or horseback. It's not that easy of a trek by road, either. The farm is quite steep, typical for the high ridges of the Sierra Los Cuchumatanes mountains. I found the plantings to be quite a jumble of cultivars. There were certainly a lot of old Bourbon trees, but I saw a lot of Typica (Arabigo), and some Caturra and Catuai as well. There were red and yellow varietals. Processing is wet-process, traditional fermentation, but they are working with a very tight space; there is not a lot of flat areas in this topography. So they have to manage their batch sizes carefully or they will rapidly run out of patio space for sun-drying the coffee. Regardless of the details, they are producing an amazing coffee, and I wouldn't suggest that they change a thing! Since it was #2 in the 2010 CoE, it seems others agree.
The Finca Rosma is so sweet in the aromatics, laced with prized floral and fruited elements. The dry grounds have plum and dark cherry notes, with mild milk chocolate roast tones. The wet aroma has the essence of sweet cherry, rose blossom, vanilla, dark honey and an intriguing hint of rosemary. It's a very attractive set of scents. The cup has lively brightness of a Huehuetenango, with all these nuanced flavors suggested by the aroma; roses, red plums, red apple, cherry. It's a luminescent cup at City roast, on the lighter end of the roast spectrum. As the roast get's toward Full City+ and second crack, it is predictably more pungent in roast taste, more bitter-sweet. Still, red apple fruit notes (a bit like apple cider) come through, as well as cinnamon and allspice.
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Archived Reviews
To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Guatemala Coffee Archives.
2005-2006 | 2004 -2003 | 2001-2002 | Pre-2000 Tom's Sample Cupping Log | Moisture Content Readings This page is authored
by Thompson Owen and Sweet Maria's Coffee, Inc. and is not to be
copied or reproduced without permission
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