Green Coffee Offerings : Central America : Costa Rica |
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View Our Current Costa Rican Coffees |
Upcoming Crop CommentsWe received the next batch of our Costa Rican coffees for the year and will continue to move through them. More coming later too - and they are all well prepared and well shipped, so they ought to last a while and not fade in quality. We continue to pay farmers more, hence prices are up from last year. |
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About Costa Rican Coffee
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Can a coffee be too perfect, too balanced, so all you can say about it is ," Hmm ... it has coffee flavor."' That's the criticism that used to be leveled at the coffees from Costa Rica - too balanced, too clean, too mild. We categorize this type of coffee as the "classic cup," the traditional balanced coffee that has no defects or taints. Coffee cuppers call it "clean" and it's not the same thing as "boring." Yet many Costa Ricas from the large farms and mills are exactly that; middle-of-the-road arabicas. But there's can be more to a Costa Rican coffee than neutrality. They are prized for their high notes: bright citrus or berry-like flavors in the acidity, with distinct nut-to-chocolate roasty flavors. For me, the main issue with Costa Rica had been the model of coffee production, big mills creating brands, not small farms with their own tree-to-bag processing. Since we are small and can handle small lots in a way that is not economical for a larger coffee company, we changed the way we sourced Costa Rican coffees in 2008 and had some spectacular micro-lot offerings. This new quality initiative is coming from Micro-Mills, tiny low-volume farm-specific coffee producers who now keep their lots separate, mill it themselves, gaining total control of the process, and tuning it to yield the best possible flavors (and the best price!) This revolution in processing is possible due to new environmentally friendly small milling equipment, and the disatisfaction of small producers who sell coffee at market prices, only to see it blended with average, carelessly harvested lots. With an independent Micro-Mill, a farmer can become a true "coffee craftsperson," maximize the cup quality of their coffee, dividing lots by elevation or cultivar, and receiving the highest prices for their Micro-Lot coffees. In turn, we get unique and diverse Micro-Lots, and a transparent, long-term relationship with the small farmer. Some call it Direct Trade, but we call it our Farm Gate coffee, where we can be assured of exactly what the farmer received. And in these cases they yield 40%-100%+ more than Fair Trade prices. The range of flavors that result from Costa Rican coffees has expanded without limit due to the new relationships we are forming, ranging from traditional wet-processed lots with vivid brightness, floral and clean fruit notes, to ... well, radically different dry-processed coffees in the style of Ethiopia Harar. And there is everything inbetween too, so please read our descriptions and enjoy the new diversity of flavors. It's a moment to rejoice: farmers paid well, their coffee elevated from obscurity in "pooled lots" and mill marks, the satisfaction we get from offering so many unique flavor profiles, and for the home roaster, stepping that much closer to the source, to a small farmer tuning their Penagos depulper just like you tune your home roast machine, both seeking to reveal the possibilites locked in the green coffee bean! I have been to Costa Rica now many times - my Spanish gets better with each trip! Check out the photos in the travelogue section of the Coffee Library page. -Tom
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Our Unroasted Costa Rican Coffee Offerings
This is a single micro-lot from a one producer, processed at the Helsar de Zarcero coffee wet mill. They have been turning out some of the nicest coffees from the West Valley area for several years now, and selecting from particular farmer lots allows for even more consistency and quality in the cup. This is a Caturra varietal coffee, and processed using the Penagos ecological machine wash process (rather than traditional wet-process fermentation method). The cup results we get are so close to the classic, clean, bright flavor of high grown Costa Rica that we feel the new process method, while saving water and better for the environment, also results in flavors similar or better than the old style wet-process method. The key is not just in how you separate the coffee seed from the fruit, but care in drying. Helsar is great at drying, with covered drying patios that trap convective heat flows. All this is a bit technical, I know. But you really can taste the result of good processing in the cup.
In the dry grounds, there is a distinct sweetness, malt, caramel and walnut, while the wet aroma has a unique savory-sweet complexity. The cup has a bright character, zesty citrus acidity, balanced by a honey sweetness and a hint of melon. The body is light, but suits this high-toned and mouth-refreshing flavor profile. As it cools, the cup sweetens, and pear juice fruit character emerges (City+ roast level). Darker roasts have a nice cocoa tone, and more moderate brightness. It's a wonderfully transparent coffee, clear and clean flavor profile, what classic Costa Rica coffee should be.
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Finca Bella Vista is an award winning farm in the area of Leon Cortez de Tarrazu. It has the honor of being top coffee in the 2009 Costa Rica Cup of Excellence. Bella Vista is part of a larger farm called La Loma with a lower, flatter section called La Ladera, then a rapidly inclining slope which is San Francisco, peaking at 1800 meters. Above this is Bella Vista, which includes the peak of this "mountain of coffee". In fact, when I walked the farm earier this year, the very top parts were still not ripe for picking. And in fact they plants looked less healthy as I drew near to the 2000 meter mark. (There is an inflection point where coffee produces less and is more susceptible to leaf fungus due to the cloud cover that persists at higher altitudes). It's a very high farm in any case. The exporter I was with turned to me and said, "We're way up there, bro." The farm is owned by the Bonilla-Solis family, as is the Don Mayo mill that is run by Hector and Pablo Bonilla. Like the other lot we have from the greater La Loma farm, it is ideal situation. The Bonillas own their own cherry production, and don't have to compete to buy the cherry against other local buyers, and can manage the quality from the tree through the picking and processing.
Bella Vista has a wonderful dry fragrance from the ground coffee; honey-toffee sweetness, touched by juicy plum fruit notes. The wet aromatics have almond praline, caramel, and fig spread on toast. The cup has a striking brightness, rindy citrus and quince fruit, a date sugar sweetness, and red apple notes in the lighter roast levels (City to City+ roast). Darker roasts have a black currant jam note, and the same red apple of the light roasts emerges as the cup cools, finishing with a touch of apple skin tightness. The cup cools with some Earl Grey tea-like qualities of bergamont, and a touch of jasmine. City+ roast seems ideal, although a melange blend I did of 1/3 City roast, 2/3 Full City was rather astounding in complexity, seeming to flesh out dimension in the cup that was unseen in the straight roasts.
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Archived Reviews
To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Costa Rica Coffee Archives.
2005-2006 | 2004 -2003 | 2001-2002 | Pre-2000 Tom's Sample Cupping Log | Moisture Content Readings This page is authored
by Thompson Owen and Sweet Maria's Coffee, Inc. and is not to be
copied or reproduced without permission
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