Green Coffee Offerings : Arabia : Yemen


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Given the political instability in the region, we were amazed by the quality of coffee we were able to get from our supplier in 2011. We hope the same is true in 2012


About Yemen's Coffee

 
 

Rounded Shape of Shibriqi Mokha
Rounded Shape of Shibriqi Mokha
Shibriqi coffee cherry is smaller than Tufahi, and has a very rounded shape

Checking out the Coffee Cherry
Checking out the Coffee Cherry
We came across a guy resting after picking some coffee (not the guy in the image - that's me!) In Central America you see pickers with huge amounts of cherry, but with such low production in Yemen, with so little coffee in the trees, this was a miniscule bag in comparison.

Technically, Yemen is on the Asian continent (on the Arabian Peninsula) although it is really just a stone's throw from Africa, across the Red Sea and the Gulf of Aden. For coffee reasons, and since there is no other "Arabian" coffee, we put it in the family of tastes that are North African.

Now, what is Mokha? Al Mokha (Al-Mahka) is the port city that Yemeni coffee ships from! It has nothing to do with chocolate. Why is the coffee called Mokha? Because in the coffee trade it was too complicated to name all the little sub-regions where the coffee is actually grown, even though they do produce notably different coffees in terms of the cup. Many of the dry-process Ethiopian coffees will also call themselves Moka: Moka Harar etc. ...I believe to associate themselves with the taste profile they share with Yemens. How the heck do you spell Mokha? Well, it is spelled usually Mocca or Mocha or Moka ...but in fact the most correct spelling is the one you will never see: Al-Mahka, which is the truest to the Arabic spelling. I am trying to use it, but you will see I lapse, or in fact want to indicate also the way I am seeing it spelled on the burlap bag. Lastly, let me say that Yemeni are one of the most distinct and prized coffees in the world, but this is what we call a "wild" or natural cup ...Earthy, complex, pungent ---to some it may be strange and bitter. Either way, do yourself a favor and try it sometime.( You can see by our selection I am a fan of this unusual coffee) ... And don't blame me if you become addicted!

Yemen has a coffee culture like no other place, and perhaps some of what we enjoy in this cup is due to their old style of trade. Exporters do not buy from farms, but through an extesive network of middlemen. Local buyers receive coffee in the pod, the entire dried cherry, and that is stored, usually in underground caverns! The coffee actually exported is usually the oldest of their stocks, not new crop coffee! But this is the way it has been, and is one reason that new Yemen arrivals often have moisture content readings in the 10.5% range, in my experience. Yemeni growers are not hurt by this system with so many middlemen, largely because the coffee land under cultivation is limited, production is fairly low due to high altitude and limited inputs, and the crop is in such high demand. Competition from the Saudis also keeps Yemeni coffee prices very high. We are offering Qishr now too (also spelled Quishir, Keshir, Geshir) - the dried coffee husks used to make traditional hot infused coffee tea, or Yemen Ginger Tea.
 
 
 
I have posted a rather large travelogue from my Yemen trip, November 2007, and links to other articles about Yemen coffee
Coffee Farms:
330,000
Harvest Times:
Main Crop: Octy.-Dec. , 2nd harvest (some areas) in April
Coffee Workers:
1,530,000
Processing;
Grading:
Natural, locally dry-processed arabica;
No regulatory agency, no grading
Shading:
Wild growth, yes: N/A, Coffee grown on terraces
Certified Organic:
None certified: all coffee grown organic by tradition, no chemical inputs.
Major Coffee Growing Regions:

Mattari (from Bani Matar),
Hirazi/Harasi (from Haras), Haimi, Saihi, Ismaili, Sharasi,
Dhamari (from Dhamar),
Rimy (from Raimi or Rayma)

Rank in Production::
10th in Asia
46th in World
Botanical Cultivars:
10 unique local varietals of original Mokha seedstock, brought from Ethiopia
Introduced:
6th Century or earlier: Introduced from Harar region of Ethiopia where coffea arabica grows wild. Yemen was the first site of coffee cultivation outside Ethiopia
Al Hagarah
Al Hagarah
On the way to Haras, Yemen, you pass this especially imposing town, Al Hagarah. By the way, there's always a variety of way to spell things in Yemen. I was given the names of Al Hagrah, Al Hajrah, and Al Hagarah for this town.
I can see coffee now ...
I can see coffee now ...
As we approached Lower Gart I could see that many of the roofs had coffee drying. Indeed, this is the middle of the Yemeni Harvest (October-December) so it makes sense.
 
General Yemen Roasting Tips: These coffees are very high-grown and need to be roasted slightly longer than other arabica coffees. This is a dry-processed natural coffee, and the roast color will be uneven from bean to bean ...but we judge coffee by the "cup quality," not visual appearances: don't be an "eye-cupper". Some Yemeni coffees are very small in screen size, which might cause problems in the Alpenrost. Yemeni coffee really develops its flavors over the first 2 days after roasting, especially the body/mouthfeel. Ideally, try to wait 24-48 hours before brewing. Since this is a hand prepared coffee dried in the sun - watch out for rocks! There can be small stones in the coffee that you need to cull out before roasting and definitely before grinding as these can jam a grinder. (In wet processed coffees the stones fall out in the water channel but in dry processed coffees, small stones can escape detection and make it all the way through to the final bag.) Expect uneven roast colors from Yemeni coffees, just as with the dry-processed Ethiopian coffees. Yemeni coffees pass from 1st crack to 2nd crack rapidly, so be on your toes!

Our Yemeni Offerings:

Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below. Check out the Sweet Maria's Coffee Home Roasting Forum for more conversation about home roasting this and other coffees.


We are currently out of stock. The review below is provided for your reference.

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Yemen Mokha Mattari

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Bani Mattar is one of the few coffees from the growing regions surrounding the high-altitudes of Sana'a that was traditionally kept separate. All others were mixed to form "Sana'ani coffee" with decidedly mixed outcomes. But coffee in Bani Mattar is a bit different, tall old-growth trees than appear like a fruit orchard than a typical coffee farm (well, NO coffee production in Yemen looks like a coffee farm anywhere else!) When I traveled in Yemen last November, the Mattari coffees where not ready to cup yet, it was too early in the harvest. And after we were stranded in a mountain town in Ismaili overnight, our itinerary to visit Bani Mattar was disrupted. Yet when our shipment of coffees that were a direct result of the trip finally arrived at the Port of Oakland, the Mattari was a real standout coffee. The Sharasi was delicate and sweet, the Ismaili was appropriately spiced, earthy ... the Mattari was a very complete cup with unique winey tones. It was impressive. The dry fragrance has striking mature fruit character from the get-go. At C+ it has red grape, and a winey fruit tone that is partially covered by chocolate, as well as earthy notes and tobacco. With Full City+ the fruit is still present, but somewhat eclipsed by dark chocolate roast tones. There's a rustic, woody maple syrup sweetness in the wet aroma, and a trace of mango in the lighter roasts. The body seems thick and dense, and overall this cup has a very deep, subdued range. After comparing the Mattari side by side to the Ismaili and Sharasi (as well as several others that did not meet our mark) this dark fruited bitter-sweetness is so apparent. Yemeni coffees need rest after roasting. They have more aromatics at 12 hours or 24 hours, but really develop at 72+ hours of rest after roasting. This is even more true for espresso. The Mattari as Single Origin (SO) espresso is very dense: It remonds be quite a bit of Scharfen-berger 70% bittersweet chocolate. But I preferred the Ismaili and Sharasi for espresso





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Yemeni village with coffee drying on the rooftops (look closely!)
Country:
Grade: n/a
Region: Bani Mattar
Mark: Al Haj, Mattari Mokha, Sowaid
Processing: Natural Dry Processed
Crop: September 2008 Arrival
Appearance: 1.4 d/300gr, 15-16 Screen
Varietal: Heirloom Yemen Moka Seedstock
Intensity/Prime Attribute:
Roast: C+ to F+ … Winey fruited backdrop exists in the light and dark roasts, and bittersweet dark chocolate pervades the FC+ to Vienna roast levels. Allow proper resting (see review)
Compare to: Mattari is different than our other Yemeni offerings: Dark chocolate tones and winey fruit backdrop, laced with tobacco
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We are currently out of stock. The review above is provided for your reference.


Archived Reviews

To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Yemen Coffee Archives.


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