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Africa: Rwanda

 

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Current Crop Comments:

We have 2 lots lined up for 07, both pure Bourbon coffees. We are working with a 70 member womens coop on one of these lots . Rwanda has a lot going for it: traditional cultivar, good altitude, and lots of willing advisors from USAID! It's a delicate coffee in some respects, cupped beside many Kenyas, but these subtle citric qualitites, interesting aromatics, and consistent high quality make it a much more interesting origin than Zambia and Zimbabwe at this point. In flavor, we are in the same range as the Tanzania Songea from 05-06, in many respects.

Check out Bikes to Rwanda website, a great program. Sweet Maria's just donated funds for 25 cargo bikes to be shipped to coffee farmers through this program.

Rwandan coffee was rarely seen in the United States as either a Specialty grade or a low-end commercial coffee. There simply was not that much coffee produced in Rwanda, and political unrest in East Africa has hindered the production of good exportable coffee. It is believed that coffee was introduced in Rwanda in 1904 by German missionaries. Around 1930, a considerable interest in coffee developed as it was the sole revenues generating commodity for rural families. Up to now, coffee has played a considerable role in the socio-economic development of the country, despite the collapse of world coffee prices at the international market.

Typical washing station (wet mill). This is at Bufcafe, where our Butare coffee comes from. Washing stations are communal, and often used by more than one farm or cooperative. Here is info about the wet mill improvement project. Our lot of Womens Coop Duhingekeni being sorted. I made a separate Duhingekawa page with additional photos and information about this group,

Then there was the genocide in the 90s, one of the most horrendous occurrences in modern history. It makes me dizzy just imagining how a country recovers, how people go back to a "normal" life after the tragedy of monumental scale. But the recovery in Rwanda has occurred with an unflinching openness to the genocide. (A personal thought: I think much of the world stood by because awareness of Rwanda was low, and self-interest in Rwanda was low. What did Rwanda produce and export that the world cared about? Clinton said so much at the time, and in retrospect regretted it as did other world leaders on whose watch the massacre happened. I feel that interest in Rwanda, awareness of their products and the people, would make another tragedy difficult to ignore...)

Traditionally the high grade export lots went to Europe. The coffee has historically been transported across Uganda to Mombasa, Kenya for shipment to Europe, a trip that has not always been possible in the past decade with great civil unrest. The result is that the coffee cannot reach market, so the price and the incentive to produce top-grade coffee has diminished greatly for the village coffee farmer. That's why it comes as a very pleasant surprise to receive an excellent Rwandan coffee from small-holder village coffee farms and small estates. The fact that rural people can tend their crops and get export prices for them is a good sign for Rwanda, and for us ... because this is an origin with great potential. Historically, Rwanda has been the 9th largest producer of arabica in Africa, with 500,000 small farms averaging less than 1 hectare each. Coffee is grown in the western part of the country and in the central area near the capital of Kigali. The eastern part of Rwanda, over 1/7th of the country, is set aside as a national park and there is no coffee production permitted.

Some general statistics: Coffee is grown by small scale coffee farmers estimated at 400.000 in number, with an average of 165 coffee trees per farmer;
· Only Arabica coffee varieties are grown, with the predominance of bourbon and typica varieties;
· Other Varieties cultivated: Harrar; POP3303/21; Jackson 2/1257; BM 139.
· Altitude range from 1200 to 1800 meters above sea level;
· Rainfall range from 900 to 2200 mm per annum;
· Soils are generally good, with high yield potential for coffee. About 30% of soils under coffee cultivation are of volcanic origin;
· Cultivated area under coffee farming: 28,000 hectares;
· Flowering: September - October;
· Harvesting season: March - July;
· Wet processing methods;
· Caffeine content: 1.3%;

Our Rwanda Coffee Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below.


Rwanda Duhingekawa Women's Cooperative (Fair Trade Certified)
Country: Rwanda Grade: A1 Region: Abakundakawa, Rushashi Washing Station Mark: Abakundakawa Cooperative, Women's subgroup Duhingekawa, Fair Trade.
Processing: Wet-Processed Crop: May 2008 Arrival Appearance: .4 d/300gr, 16-17 Screen Varietal: 100% Bourbon Arabica BM 139
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.5 Notes: Abakundakawa is a 1700 member cooperative that mills its coffee at the Rushashi washing station. The average altitude here is 1600 to 1800 meters for coffee production, the varietal is traditional Bourbon seedstock, and the typical wet process method is used, with sun-drying on raised beds or patio. This is fair trade certified, part of the USAID project in Rwanda to improve the quality of life ... but it is also a special micro-lot separated from the bulk production of the Abakundakawa coop. This is produced exclusively by a women's group, Duhingekawa, a 70 member sub-group of the coop, and we have paid a premium for this particular lot that is returned directly to the women producers. I made a separate Duhingekawa page with additional photos and information about this group, since it is a bit too much to put here. I cupped it against various A1 and A2 lots from other nearby coop lots, and found a very distinct, beautiful character in this coffee. The fragrance here has soft floral notes and (a theme throughout the cup) a sweet citrus note. The aroamtic is where the coffee comes to life; a bouquet of orange blossom, slightly winey. The cup fulfills the promise of the aromatics: jasmine and citrus flowers, sweetness, vivid aftertaste, and a remarkaby silky body (although not that heavy). This is still somewhat of a delicate cup, and really requires the right roast to reveal it's true character. My lighter City roasts were baked-tasting, under-developed. It was better with a few days rest, but it never had a very "complete" profile. The sweetness has a sweet brown malt flavor, caramelly, and lingers through the long aftertaste. This is not a "powerhouse cup", but roasted and brewed correctly, it is remarkably attractive, with Yirgacheffe and Kenya hints.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.6
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.7
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.7
Body - Mouthfeel (1-5) 3.4
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.6
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 0 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium intensity / Balance and depth  rwanda
add 50 50 Roast: City+, Full City: this coffee was under-developed in flavor at City roast, and loses sweetness if roasted into 2nd crack too much.
Score (Max. 100) 86.5 Compare to: East African brightness, mildly Kenya-like in cup character, excellent aftertaste

Rwanda FT
Duhingekawa Women's Cooperative

$5.80add to cart $11.02add to cart $25.23add to cart $48.14add to cart $89.32add to cart

Rwanda Gkongoro Nyarusiza
Country: Rwanda Grade: AA Region: Southwestern: Butare (Gkongoro, Nyarusiza) Mark:

Bufcafe Cooperative
Washing Stations

Processing: Wet-Processed Crop: February 2008 Arrival Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 16-17 Screen Varietal: 100% Bourbon Cultivar
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.7 Notes: This lot is from a cooperative washing station (a wet mill for coffee processing) in the region of Gikongoro, Nyarusiza, near Butare. This area, in southwestern Rwanda adjacent to Burundi, has some of the best coffee farming areas, featuring old trees of the traditional Bourbon varietal. With a range of 1300 to 1600 meters, this lot of high grown Bourbon has a compact physical density that performs well in a variety of roast conditions, air roast or drum roast. The coffee is wet processed and dried immediately on raised beds in the African style, which promotes even, rapid drying (more-so than patio drying in many cases) because the air flows around the wet parchment coffee from above and below. This is a classic Bourbon type Rwanda flavor profile: some lemon, bittersweet chocolate, cherry ... dark tones with a bittersweet edge, overlayed by citrusy grace notes as the cup cools. It's very balanced; bittersweet roasty coffee flavors in proportion to fruited flavors. The cup has sweet and sour Mandarin notes, fading into a good coffee-flavor bittersweetness. Coffee flavor? In coffee? Sometimes it is difficult to describe the pleasant bitterness of coffee in terms of other things (most often, bittersweet notes in chocolate). But sometimes the tangy bittersweets seem to refer to no other flavor but coffee itself. That's the case here, I feel. But there is more too, with a syrupy body and these lingering citrus hints. There's also a trace of that winey accent to the fruit, something you might find in a neighboring Kenya. In a slightly darker roast (FC, rather than C+) my mandarin citrus turned to a black currant fruit note: very nice! I get slight herbal and floral secondary flavors too, lurking in the background, slight rosemary highlights, and in the finish a twist of lemon peel.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.5
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.9
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.8
Body - Mouthfeel (1-5) 3
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.7
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 2 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium intensity / Bright and balanced  
add 50 50 Roast: City+ to FC
Score (Max. 100) 88.6 Compare to: Graceful East African brightness and bittersweets. Clean and dynamic cup

Rwanda
Gkongoro Nyarusiza

$5.20add to cart $9.88add to cart $22.62add to cart $43.16add to cart $80.08add to cart

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