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Africa: Kenya


 
The Congo

On a historical note: coffee was introduced into Kenya by way of Reunion (Bourbon) island at the end of the 19th century. (1893 is sometimes given as the date). It was brought for local cultivation by the Fathers of the Holy Spirit congregation, another case of the long and twisted road that religion and coffee have traveled together!

This map of the Mt Kenya area shows some of the nearby coffee origins (I highlighted the names in yellow).

Patrick from Royal has a very informative write-up on Kenyas (.PDF file format)

Current Crop Comments:
Our 2009 Kenyas started to arrive in May 2009 and we currently have coffees from the Kirinyaga and Nyeri regions. Main crop runs February through August and now that many exporters are switching to vacuum packed boxes instead of bags, we will be able to keep offering the best of the season deep into the fall. We will keep posting new Kenyas as we sell through the other ones; they are all good, so don't worry if you miss one, there is another one coming! The crop this year is huge, in contrast to nearly everywhere else. I visited Kenya in March 2009, both to a few farms, the Nairobi auction house and the cupping rooms of Dorman's, a big coffee exporter. The entire auction operation is amazingly impressive - over 600 separate lots that are sampled and bid each week! Be sure to look for that travelogue on the Library page. Of our current offerings, the Kirinyaga-Kiambu peaberry has nice balance and a silky body. The Kirinyaga AA- Gakuyu-ini is more of the super citric coffee that many people look to this origin for. It makes a great SO espresso - which is maybe a bit of a surprise. The two coffees from Nyeri, the Kagumo Coop and the Ngunguru Peaberry, the Kagumo is that citrus-bomb Kenya and the Ngunguru is more of a sleeper surprise, blackberry currant.

Kenya is the East African powerhouse of the coffee world. Both in the cup, and the way they run their trade, everything is topnotch. The best Kenya coffees are not sold simply as generic AA or AB. They are specific auction lots sold to the highest bidder, and heated competition drives the prices up. Their research and development is unparalleled. Their quality control is meticulous, and many thousands of small farmers are highly educated in their agricultural practice --and rewarded -- for top level coffee.

In general, this is a bright coffee that lights up the palate from front to back. It is not for people who do not like acidity in coffee (acidity being the prized bright notes in the cup due to an interrelated set of chlorogenic acids). A great Kenya is complex, and has interesting fruit (berry, citrus) flavors, sometimes alternating with spice. Some are clean and bright, others have cherished winey flavors.

I am really proud of our consistently excellent selection of Kenyas! It takes a lot of work to sort through the many samples available to find the few that are truly complex, that alternate in the way you sense them to make the coffee more than just your standard, pleasant cup, but a real experience. When we go after an auction lot, 9 out of 10 times we buy the whole thing; it is exclusively ours. While it is possible that the same farm or co-op has more than 1 auction lot (for example, 1 early in the season, and 1 a bit later in the same harvest) I can say with certainty that I cupped them all and bought the better one. It's just a matter of effort and hard work, and when it comes to cupping Kenyas, we put a focused and intensive effort into the auctions during the Main Crop season.

Currently, the excellent Kenya auction system and coffee production in general is suffering myriad problems as is all of East Africa. Politically, Kenya, the former model of progress and African Independence, is in disarray. For now, the coffees are still of high quality but if the auction system does not continue to serve and benefit the small farmer co-ops, they will plant other crops instead, or replace the better cultivars (the excellent SL-28 and SL-34 selections) with the disease resistant but poor quality Ruiri 11 strain.

3.10.09 - I visited Kenya in March 2009, both to a few farms, the Nairobi auction house and the cupping rooms of Dorman's, a big coffee exporter. The entire auction operation is amazingly impressive - over 600 separate lots that are sampled and bid each week! Be sure to look for my travel commentary from Tom's recent Kenya trip, plus a couple hundred new images!There are great images there from the coffee auction house, where nearly all Kenyan coffees that reach the market are traded.

Coffee Farms:
573,426 farms grouped into 275 cooperatives,
1,275 plantations
 
Harvest Times:
Main Crop: October-December,
Fly Crop: June-August
Coffee Workers:
6,000,000
Grading,
Processing :

AA (17/18 screen)=highest
M'buni, natural coffee for local consumption=lowest:
Wet-processing

Shade Grown:
Rarely
Certified Organic:
None. Localized use of chemicals is rare, due to excellent agricultural methods: mulching, pruning, mowing etc.
Major Coffee Growing Regions:

High Plateau around Mt. Kenya,
Aberdare Zone,
West: Kasii, Nyanza, Bungoma, East: Nakuru, Kericho

Rank in Production::
6th in Africa
18th in World
Botanical Cultivars:

SL-28, SL-34, Bourbon, Kents, Typica, Riuri 11. Bourbons are sometimes called Scottish Mission and French Mission.

Introduced:
1800's: By the Fathers of the Holy Spirit Congregation: Bourbon in 1911 from Reunion: Kents in 1920 from the Indies.
Colored Kenya Coffee??? Sometimes you will see a bright color on an Auction Lot Kenya coffee seed. Kenya coffees are milled and assigned lot numbers during the auction process, before the winning bidder is known. Then they us chalk and a stencil to mark the bags with the winner's information. So you are seeing a little colored chalk, not ink, that made it through the weave of the bag onto the coffee. Roast 'em or remove 'em - they do not affect the cup, and are not harmful to health in any way. -Tom

Our Kenya Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below. Check out the Sweet Maria's Coffee Home Roasting Forum for more conversation about home roasting this and other coffees.


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Kenya AA Nyeri Tambaya
Tambaya is one of the Coffee Factories (wet-mills that are organized as cooperatives) within the Rumukia Coffee Farmer Society in Karatina area of Nyeri. Tambaya is close to Mukurwe-ini, and was formerly part of this society until it fell apart in the '90s. Within the same Rumukia group are some other fantastic farms we have offered in the past: Kiawamururu, Gatura, and Thunguri to name a few. The area of Tambaya is 1550 meter altitude, in the fertile foothills of Mt. Kenya and Aberdare ranges. The Tambaya coop has 1093 members and the average number of coffee trees per member is just 250. Again, in Kenya coffee "societies" the farmer's plots are so small, they are measured in numbers of trees, not in area of land as they are in other coffee origins. But this means that co-ops provide micro-management of every coffee tree by the owner of the land, not by a large-scale agriculture operation like the big estates of Kiambu or Thika. The member farmers have the two preferred coffee varieties under cultivation, SL-28 and SL-34, with the vast majority of trees being SL-28. Tambaya has a lush dry fragrance with vanilla notes, warm spice, caramel-vanilla and very sweet fruited notes. There is a peach apricot scent, but in a jammy/candy-like form, not the real thing. The wet aroma has a wine-like fruited tone, and a sweet berry syrup scent as well. There's a dash of spice in there, cinnamon with a bit of mace. The cup is outstanding and rather elegant too; bright, alto-tones yet with balance. There are pink grapefruit citrus notes, jasmine tea floral flavors, and a light brown sugar sweetness in the lighter roasts. At City+ level, ripe Mandarin orange flavors dominate, with a layer of warming spices. As it cools, toasted almond essence comes out, peach and apricot stone fruits, Earl Grey tea in the finish. And yet it is improbably sweet from start to finish, the sweetness of mature, ripe fruits. On my last pass at the cupping table, I found myself simply drinking this irresistibly delicious coffee (rather than spitting, which we do to avoid getting over-caffeinated!) While lightest roasts have a bracing finish, it is milder and more "rounded" in acidity (as opposed to a sharp, prickly acidity) than some of our other lots, and complex in it's estery floral and fruit characteristics as well. The Tambaya is one of a handful of Kenyas with the right flavor profile to work well in espresso, either straight (if you like bright, dynamic espresso) or as an aromatic component in a blend.

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Kenya AA Nyeri Tambaya
$6.45$12.26$28.06$53.54$99.33
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Manager of the Tambaya Factory in Nyeri, James.
Country: Kenya
Grade: AA
Region: Nyeri
Mark: Rumukia FCS, Tambaya Factory
Processing: Wet-process
Crop: July 2009 Arrival (Vac Pack)
Appearance: .2 defect per 300 grams, 18 screen
Varietal: SL-28, SL-34
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium-Bold Intensity/ Very sweet cup with ripe fruits and spice
Roast: City to Full City; for a Kenya, Tambaya is a milder coffee in terms of acidity and can be presented with a lighter roast. I noticed that in drum roasters a faster, more aggressive roast treatment was better for this coffee.
Compare to: Very elegant, balanced Kenyas, intensely sweet, and not tartly acidic.
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Kenya Nyeri AA -Kagumo Coop
Kagumo is a stop along the road between the coffee towns of Karatina and Kerugoya on route C74 in the Nyeri district. It's also a cooperative of small-holder farmers with their own washing station (coffee wet mill), part of the Agathi Farmers Cooperative Society. Societies (as cooperatives are called) give the grower a choice to sell their cherry not just to the big private mills, but within the coop, and gain the added benefits, business assistance and loans, infrastructure and schools, etc. I happen to think they can produce better coffees than the big estates, at least more often than not. This lot was shipped to us in our new specially-lined bags, and on arrival the green coffee is fantastically fresh and has a potent aroma in itself. The fragrance (uh, from the roasted coffee that is) contains tons of sweetness, sugary, caramelly sweetness. From C to C+ roast it has caramel apple notes, and vanilla bean. The wet aroma is best in the lighter roasts, with (again) strongly sweet scents of cinnamon, vanilla and cane sugar. The cup has ripe, fresh orange juice, bright and sweet, laced with rose-like floral flavors. Cinnamon spice emerges in the aftertaste, and a twist of bracing orange rind as well. An almond roast note lingers in the background, paired with modest but substantial body. Roasting a bit darker, more pungent roast notes enter the picture, a bittersweet layer with the orange sweetness fading to the background. It may be a slightly more complex and aggressive flavor profile at FC-FC+ roast, but I like the bell-ringing clarity and brightness of the City-City+ range. The acidity of the lighter roasts isn't so bright as to be sour. It's a very drinkable Kenya in that regard.



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Kenya Nyeri AA -Kagumo Coop
$6.05$11.50$26.32$50.22$93.17
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Cupping in Kenya late last year.
Country: Kenya
Grade: AA Main Crop Auction Lot
Region: Kagumo, Nyeri District
Mark: Kagumo Factory, Agathi FCS
Processing: Wet Process
Crop: August 2009 Arrival
Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 18 screen
Varietal: SL-28
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium-Bold intensity / Sweet orange notes, modest body, spice hints
Roast: City to City+ is ideal, given the super sweet and orangey cup. I enjoyed FC-FC+ roast too, but the bittersweet notes seem to interfere a bit.
Compare to: Intensely sweet, and not too sour in the brightness.
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Kenya Nyeri AA Gichatha-ini
This lot of Gichatha-ini is a large bean AA grade selection from a coperative I visited after the harvest this season. Gichatha-ini is a factory, the site of a coffee mill, and is one third of the Gikanga Farmer's Cooperative Society. (The other two factories are Kangocho and Ndaro-ini. The name Gikanda is made up of the three factory names: GIchathaini + KAngocho + NDAor-ini). They have been an outstanding cooperative for years, and as early as this season we offered another great lot from them, in that case the Ndaro-ini factory. This coffee was not bought through the Kenya auction, but rather, in a direct deal with the cooperative that benefits them to a farm greater extent. This is called the "second harvest" buying window. It means the price is a bit higher, but they always are for AA grades from cooperatives like this, for whom many coffee roasters worldwide compete to obtain the best lots. It's also a really exquisite coffee! The dry fragrance has a dark and complex sweetness, with suggestions of black cherry syrup (used to make your own soda pop), concord grape, with a bit of peppery spice. The wet aroma has winey fruits, purple grape notes, dark sweetness. The cup has a strong winey, Syrah-like grape note to it, along with a lush fruited sweetness with hints of pear and strawberry at some roast levels. There are backnotes of Earl Gray tea, with it's characteristic Bergamot citrus oil accent. There is a dash of cinnamon spice, and a milky body. The cup cools with sugar cane sweet notes. It's a complex cup, and does not have the shrill citric notes of some Kenya lots, which might make it attractive to some who seek Kenya intensity without the screaming high brightness! If, on the other hand, you do like super bright espresso as some of us at the shop do, we pulled some amazing shots of SO Gichatha-ini at FC and FC+ roast levels, with intense plum/chocolate pudding sweetness. Try it!

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Kenya Nyeri AA Gichatha-ini
$7.20$13.68$31.32$59.76$110.88
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James, the manager of Gichatha-ini factory, shows off the pulper. From my trip late last year.
Country: Kenya
Grade: AA Main Crop Auction Lot
Region: Nyeri District, Mathira Division
Mark: Gikanda Farmers Coop Society
Processing: Wet Process
Crop: July 2009 Arrival, Vac Pack
Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 17+ PB screen
Varietal: SL-28, SL-34
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium Intensity / Dark fruits, milky body, complexity
Roast: City+ roast to Full City is ideal for Gichatha-ini.
Compare to: Complex Kenya flavor profile, with spice and dark fruits, and without the screaming bright acidity of some other lots
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To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Kenya Coffee Archives.


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